Thursday, November 7, 2024
Mesa Marrakesh: A HOMEMADE Pastrami Sandwich
In 2019, we first wrote about a sandwich we loved so much we continued to eat it during Covid by way of delivery from The Restaurant. We could never get enough of this smoky Pastrami, tasting it for the first time on a burger that ran as a special at Birdie’s.
A specialty of Chef J.J. Castenada, he brines the roast for a week, enhances it with an herbal rub for another five days and then cooks it on a smoker. His method has always been the same and it turns out perfect every time. Selective breads like this dark rye give the sandwich a much needed crunch.
Turn the clock ahead six years to 2024 and this sandwich has, much to my delight, made a comeback on the menu of Mesa Marrakesh, a small, neighborhood restaurant in San Antonio that was recently reopened by J.J.; he previously operated a restaurant under this name in Meracdo del Carmen. The restaurant is now so popular with locals, they flock to his kitchen for his Mediterranean specialties and this delicious,homemade Pastrami.
You can compare it to the Pastrami at New York Deli that opens today on Stirling Dickinson but we’ve loved J.J.’s for a very long time and it tasted as good today as it did when we first ate it back in 2019.
The Pastrami sandwich, which also comes as a Patty Melt, is on our growing list of standout sandwiches in San Miguel de Allende.
Mesa Marrakesh
Refugio Nte. 1, San Antonio, 37700
San Miguel de Allende, Gto.
Phone: 415 117 6322
Hours: Wednesday – Saturday 1:00 PM – 9:00 PM
Chef: Chef J.J. Castenada
Monday, October 28, 2024
Sombra de Arum
Sombra de Arum is one of our new go-to spots and if you’re wondering why everything is this good this soon, it’s because Sombra has one of the best management teams in the business; all of them hardworking and passionate. It’s been a total work in progress but then, so were they…
Sebastian Acosta Quiroz is a Chilean born sommelier turned business executive and is considered an ace in the management and operations of all things gastronomy and hotels. He previously worked for Hotel Matilda, Aperi, Dos Casas, Cumpanio, Casa de Los Olivos, Jacinto and Panio; and that’s just in SMA. His mentors include the numero uno at Matilda, Bruce James and Chef Matteo Salas.
Mike Espinoza is a master Mixologist that has been behind the bar since he was 16 years old; no surprise for someone with over 33 years of experience in the art and science of the drink. He’s been a finalist in national and international competitions and places in the top three. Mike has developed new, clarified cocktails for Sombra; a process that removes impurities to create crystal-clear, ultra-smooth drinks with both addictive and amplified flavors. The Owner and Director of Tobala Mixology since 2019, Mike Espinoza has been a brand ambassador for several Mexican companies. A true lover of Tequila and Mezcal, he also teaches conferences at Barra Mexico, Latin America’s premier bar show. He’s one of the top Mixology consultants in SMA, frequently working with his wife, Rachel Dawit, who previously worked for Casa Dragones and is now in charge of Sales and PR at Tobala.
We do dessert first and after one sip of the Marshmallow Espresso Martini I was in and I’m a hard sell, especially when it comes to cocktails. When we ordered a Mezcal melón with Mezcal creyente cristalino, green melón shrub with apple vinegar, chamomile and melon pearls in brine, I honestly thought it was a Margarita; a really good one. Both drinks have landed on my list of new favorites.
Sombra owners, Justin Brown and Meredith Davis, hail from Austin, Texas, which was voted the best city in the USA for nightlife. They knew that SMA’s vibrant bar scene was missing something special- a top-notch restaurant - so they hired Gabriel Ordonez, one of San Miguel’s best private chefs to head up Sombra’s kitchen. With more than 15 years of professional experience, Chef Gabriel Ordonez has worked alongside some of the world's most respected chefs including Virgilio Martinez of Central and Pedro Miguel Schiaffino of Malabar in their internationally recognized kitchens in Lima, Peru. After consuming 17 courses of Peruvian elevations, the tasting menu I experienced at Central was the best I’ve had anywhere in the world. Gabriel’s path has extended to collaborations with guest chef appearances at San Miguel de Allende food festivals, partnerships with the Rosewood hotel and notable dinners with Casa Dragones Tequila. He’s also a avid culinary educator.
We love Gabriel’s offerings at Sombra because they’re different; not the same menu you see everywhere else in town. The Potato Mille-Feuille (possibly the best potato dish we’ve eaten) with Veal Tartar: Cornichon, cured egg yolk, truffle aioli and pickled mustard seeds and the Barbacoa Croquettes with Cauliflower purée, chives, aged manchego and macha oil; both dishes uniquely Gabriel. He’s always been famous for his hamburgers and his burger blend at a pop up back in 2019 ruled supreme in SMA for a very long time. The new one at Sombra is his best burger yet, using Truffle aioli, caramelized onion and blue cheese. The brioche bun is heavenly and so light, it’s like biting into a cloud. I guarantee you’ll never taste another bun quite like this one, compliments of Santo Pan.
When you sink into one of Sombra’s oversized chairs, what are the chances you’ll be coming up for air anytime soon? The decor at Sombra is simple yet chic and surprisingly comfortable. The service was also spectacular.
Over five weeks ago, I started posting pictures on my Facebook and Instagram stories that eventually led up to this post. Lots of love, research and tasting go into every one so if you’re looking for the best in both state of the art cuisine and cocktails, Sombra de Arum is your place.
We really like the talented team that put Sombra all together and hope they’ll continue to find new ways to introduce SMA to high quality food and spirits. They definitely hit the jackpot with this one!
Sombra de Arum
Salida Real a Queretaro 101 A
Monday – Wednesday 2:00 PM – 10:00 PM
Thursday – Saturday2:00 PM – 12:00 AM
Sunday 11:00 PM – 5:00 PM
Chef: Gabriel Ordonez
Mixology Master: Mike Espinoza
Parking: Salida Real a Queretaro 117
$25MXN per hour
These Days I’m Having Italian!
We are what we eat and these days, I’m having Italian. With three new Italian restaurant openings in the second half of 2024, I’d say we hit the jackpot this time. Each of these restaurants has the winning combination: they’re family owned, offer magnificent food and hospitality and have a highly experienced chef at the helm who has cooked Italian food for well over a decade.
If you’re planning to go to Italy like I am, these three restaurants are a good place to start to master your Italian flavors. They’re the closest thing to the real deal without having to pack your bags.
Happy Eating!
Ziracco
Ziracco, a high end, Italian restaurant in Plaza Cibela on Hernandez Macias 98, has been open for a month and had an incredible, soft opening last Friday. Located in a beautiful, converted old house owned by our favorite brothers from Atrio, Chef Edgar Manuel Patena Hernandez is the star of the show, dishing out Italian specialties like he’s done it all of his life. At 31, he has over 13 years of experience cooking mainly Italian food in San Luis Potosi as well as Veracruz and Lima, Peru. After spending a month in Lima a few years back, I now understand why any chef who’s been “Lima trained” is considered golden.
Ziracco is not just a special occasion restaurant; all the dishes are priced well for the quality. The terrace shows off a spectacular view of Centro and will launch this coming November. Brother-in-laws, Ricardo Ziracco and Eduardo Bonilla, are the partners behind this project and have the art of hospitality down after opening their first restaurant in Querétaro three years ago. Ziracco showcases Italy’s most interesting, regional cuisines. From the Artichoke with cheese fondue to the colorful Ziracco salad and the Classic Carbonara with guanciale and Pecorino Romano, we’re going back to catch another round this week. Their Afogado has taken center stage; it’s the best drink in SMA this year.
Fari Trattoria
Fari Trattoria, a casual new favorite at Salida a Celaya 5, is the passion of brothers Toño Aranda Lavalle and Andres Aranda Lavalle, who own some of the best restaurants in the city: Tostévere, Bocaciega, Bocalab and La Choperia, who recently celebrated a 10 year anniversary. They also own Mister Emilio, helping small food producers gain access to better markets. Chef Davide Giribaldi of Cien Fuegos is the head chef behind the project and worked for well over a year to get the Italian flavors just right. The new chef at Fari,Yesica Rivas, comes from Bocaciega and heads up the team with support from Bocaciega’s head chef, Jose Bazan. We love the pizza - in particular the fried pizza with two variations to savor. Pizza Fritta is a popular street food in Italy that enjoys a cult-like following among locals. One of the most popular restaurants in the city, Fari has a small but very authentic menu created by some of the best chefs in SMA; a really great team that's hard to beat.
Sikelía by La Cucina di Afrodita
Sikelía by La Cucina di Afrodita is opening on the weekends (Saturday and Sunday) starting October 19th. After Chef Laura Buccheri closed her popular restaurant in the countryside outside of SMA during Covid, she traveled Europe; expanding her skills as a chef - first in Spain and Menorca and then back to Italy and the enchanted island of Sicily. She also ran a restaurant on the very VIP island of Panarea; the oldest of the Aeolian Islands and another UNESCO World Heritage Site. For an Italian, cooking is love and Chef Laura Buccheri delivers it in every dish she creates. We can attest to the fact that she does Italian desserts and pasta better than anyone in San Miguel; I’ve eaten my fair share of every one she’s made. Truly a La Dolce Vita experience, welcome home chef - we're happy to have you back.
Cafe Aldama 57
I was in a full-blown, Guadalajara state of mind when I returned from my last culinary adventure so when I learned that Chef Juan Carlos Hernandez of Café Aldama 57 had worked at the Guadalajara restaurant Alcalde and had Jalisco flavors solidly down in his playbook, I was ecstatic. I wanted to hang on to everything Guadalajara just a little bit longer..
I ate Birria a lot in Guadalajara and fell in love with Birriería Chololo, which operates out of an old hacienda on the freeway to Lake Chapala. This restaurant serves Birria tatemada, a variation of traditional Mexican birria, made with goat. The meat is marinated in chili peppers and spices then slow-cooked in an old clay oven. Charring the meat adds a distinctive, smoky flavor to the dish. Birriería Chololo is unique; it serves the meat separate from the broth. In all the years I’ve eaten Birria, that was a first. It was also at this moment that I realized that a dish has to have some pretty big flavors to get my attention and this was certainly one of them.
When I saw Birria on the menu at Café Aldama 57, I ordered it. It was so beautifully balanced; Chef Juan Carlos uses beef instead of goat and served it on a tortilla cooked with Guajillo chilli.
One of the best breakfast dishes I had in Guadalajara was at La Postreria – the Huevos Ahogados - so I ordered another Guadalajara dish at Café Aldama the next day, a Torta Ahogada, made with Carnitas. The bun had a fluffy center; the crust robust and perfect for submersion. It was heavily flavored with vinegar; a forever favorite flavor of mine since I was a kid. The torta is now on our growing list of much loved sandwiches in SMA including another Cafe Aldama 57 favorite, the Arrachera Sandwich.
Chef Juan Carlos Hernandez has been with Café Aldama 57 since it opened; his passion for innovative cuisine is the driving force behind their unique menu. I ate at a lot of high end restaurants and street food stalls in Guadalajara and although highly recommended, some were just not as good as what we’ve been getting at Café Aldama 57. Having some of the most flavorful food in SMA, we’ve eaten most of the menu already, where the specials change monthly and the dishes are priced at around $200 pesos each; a bargain for the quality. We also love the ambiance of this small cafe, sitting next to the big open window to greet friends who pass by in the morning on their way to Parque Juárez.
Chef Juan Carlos Hernandez has the freedom to experiment with flavors and push the boundaries of traditional cuisine and he did with his Avocado Toast and Lechon dish. After eating it three times and then convincing some of the other food lovers in town to try it, it’s the best breakfast dish of 2024 with three months to go and counting.
Café Aldama 57
Aldama 57, Centro
Daily 8:30 AM – 4:30 PM
Closed Tuesday
Phone: 415 688 2284
Chef: Juan Carlos Hernandez
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