Thursday, November 28, 2024

Merida!

Off we go on the next stop in my culinary tour of Mexico - Merida and despite a few days of bad weather on the front end from Tropical Depession Sara, I’m embracing this trip exactly like I did thirty years ago when I first visited Merida in my mid forties. In 2023, Merida revitalized the main streets that house some of the city’s best restaurants. Now, there are over 50 restaurants spread across two kilometers in the Corredor Gastronómico on Calle 47. You’ll know where to find me if you come looking. I will ride on the Mayan train while I’m there. Our travel agency, Viajes Vertiz at Insurgentes 63 had not booked a ticket on the Mayan train yet and mine was the first. How fun is that? Thanks to a lot of research done by intern, Kenia Ramirez, she is now the specialist on Tren Maya and you can book a ticket with them. I’m excited to see the progress first hand since they began the operation of the Campeche–Cancún line last December. In the mean time, give me any suggestions you have if you’ve recently been to Merida. Thanks for the insights on another amazing adventure; my third trip this year with Oaxaca in March; Guadalajara in August and now Merida in November. Happy trails!

HACINTTO

In 2016, we introduced you to 34 female chefs in SMA; the women who leveled the culinary playing field in SMA. We also featured 16 Maestras; the culinary pioneers of SMA, all of them female. Fast forward to 2024 and we’ve reached another major milestone for female chefs. Meet Chef Regina Aguilar, Mixologist, Yuranzi Silva, and Sommelier, Viridiana Martinez, the talent behind Hacintto; a soon to be sold out and you’ll need a reservation Hacintto. Yes, that one! Thank you Guillermo Nieto of El Estoril for the introduction because, for a math whiz and food lover, we all know that Chef Regina Aguilar+ Chef Yuranzi Silva +Chef Viridiana Martinez= pure magic! In addition to over-the-top food with just seven things on the menu, you’ll find those second level drinks I’ve been talking about, with exceptional service and some of the best ambiance in town, all at affordable prices. The most expensive dish on the menu is $315 pesos and one of my favorites: a tray of half dozen oversized shrimp marinated in adobo salmorejos and yellow lemon marinade; a cross between the cultures of Mexico and Spain. The other food items run between $150 and $285 pesos; all of them divine with flavors that will truly surprise you. The Not Fish and Chips (not served with chips) is prepared using a Louisiana technique for fried chicken where they leave the fish marinating overnight in buttermilk and other ingredients so that it’s crispy on the outside and soft and chewy on the inside; it literally melts in your mouth. Hacintto is all about cocktails as well; the most expensive drink on the menu, a Green Negroni, is $210 pesos and a soon-to-be-famous if it isn’t already, Margaritto at $180 pesos. The Margarita to come home to is made with Casa Dragones tequila blanco, lemon oil, pineapple, cucumber, chile liqueur and bitter firewater. It’s one of our new favorites. Chef, Regina Aguilar has a resume that reads like a James Beard Who’s Who; a tribute to her incredible talent and experience at the young age of 26. She’s worked for some of the best chefs and restaurants in Mexico, South America and Europe; many of them Michelin star and The World's 50 Best. The range of her experience is incredible so we’ll take you through some of the restaurants where she worked: Fauna in Valle de Guadalupe; in 2023, The World's 50 Best Restaurants ranked Fauna as the best restaurant in Mexico and fifth in Latin America; Deckman’s En El Mogor, Valle de Guadalupe features a live fire kitchen with traditional Baja California dishes and American barbecue; Alcalde, Guadalajara is the best dining experience in Mexico’s second largest city, Guadalajara where we just returned from. The kitchen offers a mix of Mexican gastronomic techniques and avant-garde cuisine. We’ve loved the cooking of every Alcalde alumni we’ve eaten with, including Chef Juan Carlos of Cafe Aldama; Cocina de Humo and Levadura de Olla, Oaxaca. Chef Thalia Barrios is the winner of the MICHELIN Mexico 2024 Young Chef Award. Her restaurants use ingredients that are harvested in her home town, San Mateo Yucutindoó, and other communities in Oaxaca. These were two of the best meals we ate in both Oaxaca and Mexico earlier this year; Borago, Santiago, Chile works with small producers and foragers across Chile as well as sourcing vegetables from the restaurant’s biodynamic farm and orchard. The method earned Boragó the Latin America’s 50 Best Sustainable Restaurant Award and a regular spot in the top five of the continent’s best restaurants; DiverXO, Madrid is rated number 3 in the World by The World’s 50 Best Restaurants. This 3 star Michelin pleasure-dome pushes the gastronomic boundaries to the limit with unique combinations and Asian influences; complements of Chef Dabiz Muñoz; the Best Chef in the World 2023. RavioXO, Madrid, is a one star Michelin restaurant also owned by Dabiz Muñoz. A gastronomical tribute to pasta and dough mixes cuisines from different cultures, including Asia and Italy. RavioXO is the “luxury of eating time” since each of the pieces requires long hours of preparation. Hokol Vuh is one of the most important gastronomic and social projects in the Yucatán. The adventure begins weeks before with a trip to the Mayan communities that work with endemic ingredients and ancestral cooking techniques. The indigenous cooks share their stories, knowledge and ingredients. The project is headed by Chef Roberto Solís, who constantly works with new techniques, presentations and flavors; crafting what’s known as the new Yucatecan cuisine. Chef Regina Aguilar also worked for Amatte in San Miguel de Allende, which is owned by her father, Hector Aguilar, who needs no introduction. The Venezuelan born Chef and Mixologist, Yuranzi Silva, is a pint-sized dynamo with an enormous talent. A graduate in gastronomy at Zi Teresa Culinary Arts, she has 10 years of experience in the field, working in hospitality in Venezuela, Panama, Pearl Archipelago and now Mexico. As Garnish Chef, Head of Production and one of the founders at Rayo Laboratory Cocktail Bar in Mexico City, Rayo ranked #5 in North America's 50 Best Bars 2024 and was previously ranked #17 in 2023, also winning the title of Best New Opening. Rayo's program is a tasting experience that features cocktails based on agave distillates, inspired by Mexican ingredients. Chef Yuranzi Silva was also a popular contestant on The Ultimate Mixologist, Season 3, where she took third place. Viridiana Martinez studied Gastronomy at Instituto Culinario Danieli/Villa Danieli in San Luis Potosí, with a specialty in Wine; her very first love. The former Director of the prestigious Festival del Vino SLP also worked with ONSOM in Guadalajara - the National Organization of Sommeliers of Mexico and at ANSONG school. A certified teacher and a chef, she also worked with Grupo Pasta in León and Querétaro who has four concepts - Il duomo, L'osteria del Duomo, Il Diavolo and the Pastry Shop with a total of 13 restaurants. She was the Sommelier at Amatte in San Miguel de Allende before going with her friend, Chef Regina Aguilar, to take on the position of Sommelier at Hacintto. With a dynamic personality that instantly melts you, she also heads up the Front of the House. Every time I left Hacintto last week, I wanted more; more of that feeling of having one of the best meals I’ve eaten in SMA in over a decade with Chef Regina Aguilar on the fast track, headed for her own Michelin star. Stay tuned. Hacintto 60 Insurgentes Centro, San Miguel de Allende, GTO. Hours: Wednesday – Saturday 2:00 PM – 10:30 PM Sunday 2:00 PM – 6:00 PM For Reservations Phone: 415 103 2158 Chef: Regina Aguilar Garnish Chef/Mixologist: Yuranzi Silva Sommelier, Chef and Front of the House: Viridiana Martinez Media: Elizabeth Sandoval

Mesa Larga

Mesa Larga, with chefs Jorge Avendano of Bastardos Restaurante and Beer Garden and Salvajes Brasserie AND Paulina Carreno of Panina was nothing short of PERFECT. Lingering next to a field of grape vines, surrounded by friends, sharing a glass of good wine in pristine fall weather with a fire sizzling comfort foods prepared by two of the best chefs in SMA was a pinch-me-when-it’s-over moment that any real food lover could not resist. How did we pick this dinner? At a gorgeous venue I had never been to before called Rancho Tierra Y Amor with an A-list of guests, Chef Avendano cooked over wood and fire - his signature preparation and the one thing he happens to do better than most. A seasoned expert; the embers at Bastardos reach 1200 degrees F on any given day and much to my delight, everything had the flavor of wood fire and smoke. The first meal the chef ever made for me featured a lot of great dishes but the high point was the ice cream cooked over smoke; a pinnacle culinary moment for me. Every dish I’ve ever had from his kitchens has been memorable, including the dishes he cooked today with his good friend, Chef Paulina Carreno. The dinner itself was so Avendano. The grill was homemade by the chef that morning, supported by piles of bricks to steady it from the sheer weight of the food. How he ever got all of the dishes on to the grill’s surface I’ll never guess but I’m certain there was a fair amount of comedy that blessed the construction. Don’t ever think that a bakery chef only does pastries and breads. Chef Paulina Carreno demonstrated her versatility but it was no surprise to those of us who know she worked her way through many of the famous kitchens across Europe and Mexico and then launched Panina SMA in the middle of the pandemic. High risk for the chef, the bakery has turned out to be one of the best in SMA; known for their sourdough products, their creative pastries and just about every breakfast item on the menu. Chef Avendaño’s cuisine is characteristically international, with a talent for creating Vegetarian. Who doesn’t love a head of Cauliflower dripping in burnt butter and nuts; one of the first in SMA and a dish he also fed to his guests at the dinner. Chef Jorge Avendano is a graduate of Le Cordon Bleu Mexico and has worked for over 20 years in restaurants and hotels around the world. Just in Mexico, he was Executive and Creative Chef at Parker & Lenox, Puebla 109, Corredor Tonala and Catalinam and others. One of his life changing moments was when he worked at Noma, a two Michelin star restaurant run by Chef Rene Redzepi in Copenhagen, Denmark. Chef Avendano owns two restaurants in SMA: Bastardo, where he also cooks over charcoal and wood and Salvajes Brasserie, where Miguel, his Sous chef at this dinner, makes a Coq au vin that’s almost as good as Jorge’s; a testimony to the fact that he’s trained his staff well. He also has a popular cantina in Polanco in Mexico City called La Sotomayor Cantina. Chef Jorge Avendano is currently in Japan on a culinary trip through Tokyo, Kyoto, Takayama and Nara. He’s attending a Noma pop up (where he previously worked) in Kyoto, Japan. We can’t wait to see the dishes he comes up with once he returns. As the light hit the golden hour, the guests - including chefs, restaurateurs and food lovers - celebrated this one perfect day. I’m all for perfect every chance you can catch it and it happens more often than not when you’re living in the magic of San Miguel de Allende. Bastardo Restaurante and Beer Garden Hidalgo 66,Centro 37770 San Miguel de Allende Phone: 984 156 1865 Hours: Tuesday - Saturday 2:00 PM – 10:00 Sunday: 2:00 PM - 8:30 PM Monday closed Chef: Jorge Avendano Salvajes Brasserie Hidalgo 92, Centro San Miguel de Allende Phone: 55 4177 2709 Tuesday - Saturday 2:00 PM – 10:00 PM Sunday 9:00 AM – 7:00 PM Monday closed Chef: Jorge Avendano Panina Stirling Dickinson #3 San Antonio, San Miguel de Allende 37700 Hours: 8:00 AM to 2:00 PM except Sunday opens at 9:00 AM Phone: 415 107 6825 Chef: Paulina Carreno