Thursday, March 31, 2022
One of the Best Chefs in SMA: Chef Marco Cruz
Just last week, we enjoyed a five star, healthy lunch at Nomada
Cocina de Interpretación- a plate of Lobina with chili ash,
cabbage, lemon, purslane, watermelon radish and a Balsamic
reduction - for just $220 pesos; proving once again that although
some restaurants in town are getting pretty pricey,
there are still great deals out there - especially ones that are
cooked by five star chefs. In fact, you could eat lunch every day
at Nomada Cocina de Interpretación - and there are weeks
when we have - and still not break your budget.
We first met Chef Marco Cruz at Bu’i – cocina de campo back in
2015. Never have we been so instantly taken by a chef more
than at our first meal with him, which I can still remember: a
Mole de olla – Short Rib (Sous vide) with carrot pure and baby
corn.
Chef Marco Cruz worked at Au Pied du Cochon, a highly rated
restaurant in Mexico City’s Polanco district that is noted for its
French food and was also part of Chef Enrique Olvera’s team.
After working with Chef Olvera at Pujol, he joined Daniel
Estebaranz to open La Estacion in Mexico City. In the beginning,
Chef Olvera created the menu and Marco applied his recipes
and techniques. Marco became the Executive Chef at both B'ui –
cocina de campo in SMA and La Estacion in Mexico City a few
years later.
In 2015, Chef Cruz opened his own restaurant, Nomada Cocina
de Interpretación, in SMA. Since then, we have eaten with the
chef over a hundred times in the seven years we have known
him including the opening night at Nomada; we’ve been with him
since day one.
Since he settled into his home in Doce 18 two years ago, our
favorite spot has been the view from the Chef’s Table, a special
place to watch this master chef at work. Chef Cruz has a gift
when it comes to creating modern, Mexican food that’s
both visually beautiful and delicious. His Wednesday Tasting
Menu is legendary. Because of new management at Doce 18,
he’ll relocate to a new spot in Centro. Stay tuned for an
announcement.
Food is ultimately about flavor and Chef Marco Cruz has the
ability to build incredible flavor profiles that carry you to one of
the many places he’s traveled or to a field in the campo, where
native ingredients speak to the chef as simply as we talk to
each other.
Chef Cruz has always cooked healthy; protein and a lot of
vegetables. What makes the meal magical is the flavors of his
sauces; they are like nothing you’ve ever tasted before. Applying
innovative techniques, the results are beyond ordinary; many
times brilliant. Creative and passionate, his staff adores and
respects him. Eat with him and you’ll swear you just
had one of the best culinary experiences in San Miguel de
Allende…and you did!
We eat with our eyes first so I am, as a rule, impressed with
presentation. Everything that comes out of the kitchen at
Nomada is visually picture perfect. Chef Marco Cruz guides a
well orchestrated team, using ingredients in ground-breaking
ways, like a slice of cecina in place of an ordinary tostada. Just
look at his eyes and you can tell how focused he is.
In our most recent comida at Nomada last week, we realized
that after seven years and over 100 tastings, Chef Marco Cruz
is still at the top of his game. Without a doubt he is one of the
best, if not the best, chef in SMA.
Nómada Cocina de Interpretación
Relox 18, Zona Centro, 37700 San Miguel de Allende
Phone: 415 121 6165
Daily: 12:00 Noon - 10:00 PM