When I lived in Chicago, I passed by Edzo’s every day on
my way to work. Eddie Larkin, the chef/owner, who did a stint at both Spruce
and Tru, was inside grinding meat. That was every morning, seven days a week. I
talked to Eddie often and ate there at least once a week for years. I discovered
a thing or two about his holy trinity: burgers, fries and malts. So why is
Eddie’s the best?
Fries: Eddie’s fries never need ketchup. They’re cooked
in hot oil - and for festivals in hickory-scented Broadbent bacon fat - using
fresh, Idaho russet potatoes that are hand-cut thin, double fried and sea
salted. I always ordered them extra-crispy (that way, they never get soggy) and
shed a tear whenever I’m about to finish my last one.
Malts: Their old-style malt
machines blend rather than cut and mix slower than modern blenders, which produces
smoother, creamier malt since less air is whipped in the mix.
Bun: The buns have brioche elements;
not made with too much butter or sugar. In other words, they’re perfect.
Burgers: Eddie used
only American beef– USDA choice chuck. It was never frozen. They cut
and grind the beef for the burgers every morning in the restaurant. He handled the meat gently and never over-worked
it. When you don’t overwork the meat, gaps
remain in-between the pieces of beef. When you cook the patty and the fat
renders, the fat goes into the voids, making your burger a whole lot juicier. Edzo’s
also offered locally-raised and grass-fed beef as an upgrade option.
Many restaurateurs’ don’t say where their
burger meat comes from, because truth of the matter is, many of them don’t
know. The restaurants on this list did, taking their kitchens personally by knowing
the facts on the source of their meat, short of raising it themselves.
A great burger is all
about the balance of meat and fat. You want beef between 20-30% fat unless you
cook it well done, in which case you should increase the fat.
There
are many blends of meat to choose from. The combination of chuck + brisket is a popular combination
and your butcher can do it for you since many people don’t own a heavy-duty
grinder. I’ve even had oxtail. I also like short rib in the mix and have made burgers
totally out of short rib meat because I love the flavor so much. It’s my
favorite taste wise in addition to a blend of filet
mignon, short rib, and brisket. If
you’re buying chuck, buy chuck steaks not a chuck roast (roasts have too much
sinew). You can also buy certified Angus, Kobe or Wagyu if you’re willing to
pay the price.
As a
burger purist, I do not eat meat that’s mixed with anything, even bacon. Many
places in Mexico put fillers in their meat so a great burger is hard to come by.
That’s why we felt this list was important. Nothing at Edzo’s is added to the
meat until they shake salt on the burger when it cooks. That’s it!
Edzo’s
offers two kinds of patties: half-pound char burgers cooked on a
grill and quarter-pound smashed burgers cooked on a griddle. If you’re making
burgers at home on anything other than a grill, cook them in a cast iron pan and
heat the pan before you make them; don’t start out cooking with a cold pan. Keep
the burgers in the refrigerator until they are ready to grill. Cook them on
high heat and turn the meat only once while they are cooking.
We ate 20 burgers in 14
days. Here’s a list of restaurants where they aren’t concerned so much with the
toppings or the sides; they recognize if their meat isn’t the best quality, their
burger wouldn’t be either.
When it comes to burgers,
it’s still and always will be, all about the meat!
Buen Provecho!
Chef
Donnie Masterton reigns supreme with the first three restaurants on this list.
Since he created burger night at The Restaurant 8 years ago, he’s continually challenged
local chefs on many things, including making hamburgers. 
The Restaurant
Sollano #1612 Noon – 10 PM Sunday, Tuesday, Wednesday; 12 – 11 PM Thursday, Friday, Saturday; Closed Monday
For
8 years, burger night at The Restaurant has been a Thursday tradition and
rightfully so; the burgers are the closest thing to textbook you can get, made
of Canada de la Virgen meat blending
cuts of sirloin, brisket and chuck. Fries are a chunky mix of both sweet
and regular potatoes. The Restaurant is the only place I drink wine with a
burger; the wine list is extensive with outstanding selections of both red and
white. Don’t forget to make a reservation in season. If you’re a vegetarian,
the Portobello Burger is another great choice.
If
you’re a purist who thinks you don’t need toppings, this burger will change
your mind because the meat stands on its own and all the trimmings simply
compliment it. Most of SMA will tell you this is one of the best burgers in
town.
Birdie’s Burgers
Doce 18 Concept
House at Relox #18 Daily 10 AM – 10 PM
If you’re going to eat a burger, order one like
this that's so delicious and sloppy it takes two hands and a stack of napkins
to get to the finish.
Birdie's burgers are 100% local, organic, grass-fed and grass-finished pasture raised beef, dry aged one month from Cañada de la Virgen, hormone, antibiotic and gluten free. Birdie's beef is prepared from a blend of sirloin, brisket and chuck and are hand formed and served on a soft toasted bun baked daily at La Buena Vida Bakery.
There’s no getting enough of one of the best
burgers in town no matter how many times you eat them.
El Vergel Bistro and
Market
Camino la Alborada #17, Predio la Alborada 37880Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday and Sunday 9 AM – 6 PM; Friday and Saturday 9 AM – 9 PM; Monday closed
El
Vergel Bistro has an excellent burger thanks to the successful combination of
Chef Magda Elisa Pablos and Canada de la
Virgen beef mixed with rib eye fat.
We
love the bistro burger topped with Brie cheese, caramelized onions, arugula and
crispy bacon but we’re also devoted fans of the sliders, made for special
events.
You
said you’d take a long road trip just to get the right burger. As luck has it,
the drive is only 10 minutes.
Nomada Cocina de Interpretacion
Nemesio Diez #2Monday, Wednesday – Saturday 9 AM – 10 PM; Sunday 9 AM – 5 PM; Closed Tuesday
This
towering masterpiece of grass-fed beef
is topped with gouda and a pile of guacamole.
The bun is brushed generously with homemade chipotle mayo. A delicious
vegetable salad (green beans, onions, zucchini, dried beets and micro-greens)
is served as a healthy side.
This
burger adventure will put you in a
food coma until you go back for another one. Don’t bother with the napkins;
we suggest you bring a bath towel.
La Canica
Pila Seca #2Wednesday – Monday 1:30 PM – 10 PM except Sunday close at 6 PM; Closed on Tuesday.
We love
La Canica’s take on a hamburger: an Asian variety with onion, a hint of ginger
and a mix of Asian spices, served with crispy, homemade potato chips.
Only a burger
made with high-quality meat can taste this good and you’ll never guess the
blend – veal shipped in from Monterrey with a little fat added for
flavor.
This
may not be a traditional burger as you know it, but it’s undeniably one of
SMA’s best.
Berlin
Umaran #19Monday – Saturday 5 PM – 1 AM; Closed Sundays
Prepare
to get messy. Berlin is a eye-opener because this 80/20 sirloin and chuck burger has few embellishments;
the star of the show is definitely the meat.
There
are a lot of outstanding burgers on this list but this one was one of the best
and biggest ones we ate. The juices, both on the bun and running down your arm,
are a testament to the quality of these burgers.
Now,
let’s see if you can really eat the whole thing without surrendering to a
doggie box. I did but I brought a friend and split it. This burger is in the top two on our list.
Quince
Cuna de Allende #15Daily 1 PM – 2 AM
Cooked
to order, this burger is an 80/20 blend of
sirloin and round from Rancho 17 in Sonora; some of the best meat in
Mexico. The toppings: a double delight of Tillamook Cheddar cheese and roasted
chilaca peppers.
The
combination of flavors made for a distinctive taste, which we found both surprising
and delicious. On the side: a satisfying compliment of Avocado, Onion and Chile
Guero.
Call
this burger the most flavorful in SMA and we’re likely to second that.
La Burger
Barranca #4212 Noon – 6 PM; Home Delivery available
Out-of-town:
Fraccionamiento El Cortijo Highway San Miguel - Dolores Hidalgo – km. s/n 7.3
s/n
With
a tasty burger made of imported sirloin
from the states, this charming, little spot serves your burger up at one,
large, over-sized communal table that takes up the entire room. Because the
restaurant is so small, they serve it with homemade chips instead of fries.
If
you miss the taste of grilled meat, take a hike to the one on the road to
Dolores Hidalgo. They cook it on an open flame and serve it up with French
fries.
It’s
good to have them back in Centro SMA again, especially when the burgers are
this good.
El Grandpa and Son
Burgers
Fabrica la Aurora
#2-AMonday – Thursday 12 Noon – 9 PM; Friday and Saturday 12 Noon – 10 PM; Sunday 12 PM – 6 PM
It’s
what you fantasize about when you have a burger dream: rib eye meat topped with American cheese, bacon and onion rings; one
messy but satisfying and flavorful feast.
You
can also order a Pico (mini) burger that’s just about 2 bites for 35 pesos.
Mine was topped with a combination of blue cheese and caramelized onions. We
like the taste when it’s cooked to medium.
Good
luck not needing a nap after this indulgence!
Café Lavanda
Calle
Doctor Ignacio Hernandez Macias 87Monday and Wednesday – Saturday 8:30 AM – 4 PM; Sunday 8:30 AM – 2 PM
Chatitas - not one but two beef
sliders served with cheddar cheese, tomato, onion and bacon sided with sweet
potato chips. The bun is baked fresh daily at Buonforno bakery, Sterling
Dickinson 33, Col. San Antonio. The meat is a blend containing skirt steak from Carnicería La Lonja, whose
farm carries some of the best beef in SMA. As long as the kitchen turns out food this good, you can bet there will continue to be lines around the block every weekend.
El Tucan
Calle del Dr Ignacio Hernandez
Macias 569 AM – 4 PM
This is the least expensive burger on the list – 30 pesos
without French fries (55 pesos with), with or without the bacon…a meaty Tocino
con Grasa from Sammy’s Mercado on Insurgentes.
El Tucan is our favorite little dive because their
ingredients are better quality than what you’ll find at most hole-in-the-walls
like the beef they use for their hamburgers. The meat comes from Carniceria Los
Tres Huastecos at Carlos Del
Castillo 4 in Colonia Guadalupe where they grind the flank steak fresh; ask for the Molida Especial if you make them at
home.
Who knew you could find both quality and value between two
slices of bread?
Mio Bistrock
Julian
Carrillo 7-C Thursday – Sunday 1 PM – 10 PM
Lorelai Cordova opened this delightful food truck in Colonia Guadalupe in a colorful, little lot that's full of local charm and adorable, mismatched furniture. Lorelai, who cooked in Acapulco, Cuernavaca and Italy, specializes in Mediterranean food and has a large variety of seafood on the menu. We delight in everything she cooks, especially the tasty high-quality lamb burger. Lorelai buys the lamb from Cazadores in Mercado San Juan in Mexico City.
We
think it’s the best lamb burger in SMA. You’ll need a fork and a big appetite to
eat it.
B’ui
Cocina de Campo
Otomi’s residential area outside of San Miguel de Allende. Km 2
Camino a San Miguel el Viejo, C.P. 37 700Friday - Sunday 1:30 PM - 9 PM
Nobody thinks of a fine dining restaurant as a burger joint but
we think it’s about time you do. All of the comforts of a country club without the dues.
This heaven-on-earth setting makes a
burger that’s picture perfect
with a taste to match, made of Green
Farms organic, grass-fed beef.
If
you want the full package, this is your place. The burger is covered with a
homemade BBQ sauce made from Chili Ancho and Poloncillo and topped with our two
favorite bites: bacon and onion rings. The bread is made locally by Panaderia
La Buena Vida. On the side are wide-cut French fries with truffle oil.
How’s this for over-the-top:
there’s a side of cheese – parmigiano and goat cheese - so you can pour it over
the burger and fries before you dig in.
Promise,
after this one, you wouldn’t need to eat for a week!
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