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| SMA Social Blogger Brenda Sexton at Doce-18 |
Things have changed
since I first came to SMA back in June, 2013 and started writing about the
food. Time flies when you’re busy eating and what seems like a long time
ago has done a 180 in the blink of an eye.
I didn’t know at the
time that a food revolution was already in progress, leading up to this week’s opening
of SMA’s most recent gem; Doce-18, where the best in cuisine fashion and design
come together. The bar has been raised, certainly more than a notch, with many
of the city’s best chefs in residence: Donnie Masterton, Matteo Salas and Marko
Antoine Cruz Sanchez.
When restaurateur
Daniel Estebaranz, owner of Milpa, a new farm to table restaurant in Doce-18,
took me in for a sneak peek several weeks before the opening, I was speechless.
I knew the property would be exquisite but this eighteenth century mansion, in
the heart of San Miguel de Allende, was transformed into a major work of
art.
It’s an application of
contrasts; where else can you buy an exquisite Tahitian pearl necklace (Turia
My Pearl) and then go feast on a $75 peso chicken sandwich (Birdie’s Burgers)
that’s so good it redefines fast food?
The wall in “The
Kitchen” (the complex is divided into different areas and named accordingly)
will serve as a canvas for different artists in the coming years. For the
inaugural, Canadian-born, contemporary street artist, Emmanuel Jarus, painted a
mural depicting the grand fiesta celebrating Doce-18’s opening.
Follow this expanded recap - the history's worth repeating - of SMA’s major food events starting in March of 2012, the year before I came, when good restaurants were few and far between, and you'll understand that the culinary rise of SMA developed over a very short time period of time.
2012:
On March 22, 2012,
Chef Donnie Masterton, owner of The Restaurant, El Vergel, Birdie’s Burgers and
The Taco Lab put on a trendy, pop up dinner with good friend and Tacolicious
owner Joe Hargrave, followed by a food and tequila pairing the next night
featuring Casa Dragones tequila.
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| Photo: elpais.com |
Mexico City superstar
chef Enrique Olvera started to collaborate at Moxi in Hotel Matilda,
establishing a culinary connection to SMA. Today, Chef Olvera consults with
Chef Carlos Zamora Larios on what some consider a combination of San Miguel
soul and Mexico City experimentalism.
About the same time,
former Director of the CIA’s culinary tours, Chef Michael Coon, was offering
gourmet tastings at Casa de Cocinas. With his dinners and food tours in demand,
high-quality food lovers moved front and center.
2013:
In May, 2013, Casa
Dragones, a handcrafted, small batch, luxury tequila with its spiritual home in
San Miguel, was rated by Wine Enthusiast at 96/100 – the magazine’s highest
tequila rating. Casa Dragones recently created a custom label of their joven
tequila for Jacinto 1930, Matteo Salas’s new restaurant in Doce-18.
Also that year, the
readers of Conde Nast Traveler selected San Miguel de Allende as the number one
city in the world. As a result of all the media hype, tourism increased more
than significantly, especially among nationals, and the demand for high-quality
food surfaced.
2014:
In March, the Mesa
Abierta festival in SMA held a series of outdoor picnics and dinners. The
lineup of chefs included Frank Castronovo, Frank Falcinelli, Mauro Colagreco
and Rick Bayless, as well as Mexican chefs Jorge Vallejo (Quintonil, Mexico
City) and Edgar Nuñez (Sud 777, Mexico City).
Andy’s, San Miguel’s
most popular taco cart and street food, made it to the Wall Street Journal in
October, 2014, publishing a recipe that was so labor-intensive I said, on my
first effort, that I would never make it again...and then I tasted
it. Surprisingly, Andy left nothing to the imagination. Andy's Recipe
In late 2014, Chef
Matteo Salas arrived on the scene from Mexico City to head up the kitchen at
Aperi and changed the course of fine dining in SMA.
Television’s popular
series, Top Chef, filmed three episodes in San Miguel de Allende. The first was
held in the plaza in front of the Parroquia; the second at Instutito Allende.
The episodes increased SMA’s emergence as a major food city in Mexico.
A group of wine
lovers, along with founder Greg Nye, launched the San Miguel Wine Club, with a
goal to discover the best wines in Mexico.
2015:
Aperi, Matteo Salas’s
fine-dining restaurant, opens in January, 2015.
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| Photo: Roberto Lopez |
Fernando Olivera
Rocha, the Secretary of Tourism for Guanajuato (notably taking office at the
beginning of this history in 2012), continues to promote the gastronomy of
Guanajuato state, including San Miguel de Allende, with over 140 different
gastronomic themed events in 2015.
During the
International Tourism Fair in Madrid (FITUR), the state of Guanajuato is
awarded the title of the 2015 Gastronomic Culture Capital of Ibero America.
In the summer of 2015,
two major culinary shows celebrate SMA’s gastronomy: Sabores San Miguel and SMA
Food Festival.
Although it was the
third year of the Sabores festival, Chef Donnie Masterton and event
coordinator, Angela Lewis Serrano, changed up the program and brought in
high-profile, guest chefs from San Francisco, Los Angeles, New York,
Washington, Toronto and London. Sabores San Miguel repeats this year on
June 16-19, 2016.
Two weeks later, a
trio of local entrepreneurs, Ricardo Pare Trejo, Daniel Estebaranz and Jorge
Alarcon L., launched a Bon-Appetit style food show at the historical Instituto
Allende. SMA best chefs paired up, offering tasting dinners that were sold out
before most of SMA even knew about them. This year, the SMA Food Festival will
be held on July 15-17, 2016. The venue will be announced shortly.
Was there room for two
major food shows just two weeks apart? Apparently so as the impressive
attendance records catapulted SMA on to Mexico’s culinary map.
Four major events
followed…
On December 5, 2015,
Chef Bricio Dominquez (whose dynasty of sons and nephews are also talented
chefs) partnered with Michelin 2-star chef Paco Roncero to open La
Canica. Paco Roncero is the executive chef and director of the NH
Collection Casino de Madrid and its restaurant La Terraza del Casino; of gastro-bars
Estado Puro in Madrid, Ibiza and Shanghai; of restaurant Barbarossa by Paco
Roncero, also in Shanghai; of Versión Original by Paco Roncero in Bogota; of
the gastronomic multi-space Sinergias in Platea Madrid and of Sublimotion, the
world’s most ground-breaking (and most expensive) restaurant in the Hard Rock
Hotel in Ibiza.
2016:
In early February,
2016, Mercado Centro opened in the old Espinos market; the brainchild of
William Mervin Villareal and his partner Paco Rosendo. Much like Mercado Roma
in Mexico City, this market joined 27 premium vendors under one roof. The
anchor restaurant of Mercado Centro is Marko Antoine Cruz Sanchez and Sofia
Antillon’s Nómada cocina de interpretación, recently praised by legendary
Chicago restaurateur Gordon Sinclair. There are currently 49 vendors on a
waiting list to get in.
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| Photo: Top Chef Mexico |
Top Chef México
premiered February 18th on NBC Universo. Hometown favorite, Chef
Matteo Salas of Aperi, is in competition for the 2016 Top Chef Mexico title.
This week, on April
17, 2016, Doce-18, located in the stately Casa Cohen mansion at Relox 18,
opened its doors.
This fashionable concept house is home to major restaurants,
shopping, galleries, a book store, wine, milkshake and champagne bars and the
luxury L'ôtel, which will open in a few weeks. Roy and Sally Azar, who hosted the
opening party on April 16th, describe L'ôtel as a “temple of design, service,
and experience.”
Introducing the vendors of Doce-18...
Ablu Botanica – a
family business founded in SMA, this artisanal bath, body and beauty boutique
uses ingredients grown in Mexico.
Armour Jewelry –
Founded in SMA, statement jewelry is hand-made using semi-precious stones, raw
crystals and sterling silver.
Birdie’s Burgers –
Burgers and sandwiches, gourmet fries and shakes: straight up and boozy and soft
serve by Chef Donnie Masterton of The Restaurant. A rise up breakfast is also
served from 10 AM – Noon. The best ingredients redefine fast food. Why are
these such good burgers? No matter how many ingredients they pile on top, you can
still taste the meat.
Bodega Rivero Gonzalez
– Merlot, Cabernet, Cabernet Franc and Shiraz wine varieties and gourmet gifts from
Valle de Parras.
dolcenero – Chocolate
art and design inspired by the obsessions of two artists, Salvador Dalí and Joan
Miró. Try the one that’s laced with Mezcal.
Carla Fernandez -
Sophisticated indigenous clothing with contemporary designs from renowned
Mexican fashion designer Carla Fernandez.
Casa Dragones -
handcrafted, small batch, luxury tequila with its spiritual home in San Miguel
de Allende. Casa Dragones is recognized as one of the best agave spirits in
Mexico.
Champagne Lounge – A
taste-by-the-glass experience of the world’s best bubbly.
Ceramica Estanzuela –
Elegant tableware hand-painted by the artisans of Michoacan.
Cocktail Room – A
cozy, paint-the-town red cocktail lounge for a row of your favorite intimates.
By reservation only. Opening soon.
Euro Te – A sensory experience;
serving over 160 varieties of the world’s best teas. Opening soon.
Hilando Mexico –
Created by Sally Azar, Mexican designs are applied to the latest trends in
style and elegance.
Jacinto 1930 – Chef
Matteo Salas creates traditional Mexican with a contemporary twist at this
stunning restaurant that comes into view when you first enter Doce-18.
Las Rosas de Aurelia –
Spectacular floral art, design and events.
Laura Kirar – famous
Interior designer produces innovative interiors for the home that value
traditional art, history and innovation.
Le Macaron Boutique –
A salute to Macarons, cakes, cookies and fine French pastries.
Light Room Gallery – A
spectacular, light filled gallery with the work of celebrated Mexican
photographer Pepe Soho.
Mac and Soup – A new
concept with different selections of Mac and Cheese and soups, inspired by
French and Italian cuisine. Desserts offer eight different rice puddings that
were the hit of the opening night party.
Milpa – Daniel
Estebaranz (B’ui – cocina de campo) presents a casual farm to table concept
featuring soup, salads and sandwiches. Culinary offerings change with the
seasons and are under the signature of one of SMA best chefs, Marko Antoine
Cruz Sanchez.
At Milpa, look for
three historical furnishings from the original Casa Cohen.
Olio Fino Tasting Bar
– An unparalleled tasting and selection of olive oils and fine balsamics.
Panio – From Cumpanio,
the best European-style bakery in Mexico, are pastries and coffees. They will be
opening a milkshake bar shortly. I’ve already claimed the first spot.
PKDO Fusion – A candy
store with sweets made in collaboration with various Mexican chefs. Great,
inexpensive treats for your favorite good lover.
Recreo San Miguel – an
attractive selection of silk, cashmere and wool ponchos, serapes, scarves,
shawls, capes, wraps, and jackets.
Regina Donde –
Clothing and accessories by this famed Mexican designer are inspired by her world
travels.
San Mike Pizza Gourmet
– By Cent’Anni, this trattoria, pizzeria and Italian grill serves unusual and
delicious gourmet pizzas and Italian food.
Sangre de mi Sangre –
Mariana Villarreal’s luxurious jewelry designs.
Seleccion de la Casa
–This inviting wine bar by Santisima Trinidad, houses SMA's most beautiful
tasting table.
Spice House – A medley
of Mexican spices, herbs and special condiments for your home cooking.
Taco Lab – A
collaboration between Joe Hargrave of Tacolicious and renowned SMA chef Donnie
Masterton of The Restaurant, this test lab – yes, we get to try them first -
features made-to-order tacos, snacks and salads along with churros and flan,
Margaritas and shots. Fast food redefined and at its best.
The Hat Shop –
Attractive sombreros and hats for every event and season.
The Library – a coffee
table book store inviting readers to visit intriguing people and destinations
around the world.
Turia My Pearl –
Tahitian pearl jewelry and accessories with newly hired sales representative, Ram Ramirez, formerly of La Azotea.
In SMA today, you find
interesting menus from all over the world; offerings tailored to a deep
appreciation of Mexico’s food heritage.
Is SMA one of the best
food cities in Mexico? Yes, thanks to the past four years and the opening of
properties like Doce-18.
The story of SMA’s
culinary evolution doesn’t end here. Although it will be awhile before SMA has
anything like Doce-18 again, wait until you see what’s coming this
summer.
It’s another game changer.
Buen Apetito!