Having been on the road for three years now, I no longer think of Mexico in terms of just beautiful beaches, five star resorts and tequila.
The Mexico
I know is
colonial cities and pueblos mágicos that
blend tradition with stunning architecture along with a remarkable food profile.
One minute you’re sipping a
smoky Mezcal that’s just been opened for the first time in five years and the
next moment you’re in awe watching Cemitas being made in a market stall in
Puebla.
Great food experiences, developing
good taste, refining your palate…call it what you like. It all goes into
understanding just what makes Mexican food taste so darn good.
Quite frankly, I thought I
would be sick of Mexican food by now but the chefs here keep reinventing
it and with every new experience comes a different taste.
We love the authentic
food experiences we’ve had in these seven cities because one new food adventure
always led to another. That’s the beauty of eating where the old world meets
the new.
To explore
the culinary landscape of inland Mexico today is as complex as it is
excitingly.
When you go,
you’ll want to dig deep to find all of your favorites.
Buen Apetito!
Mexico City
Mexico City, is packed with remarkable, high-end restaurants, food
trucks and is known for its incredible street food. In fact, there’s so much
good food in Mexico City, the Wall Street Journal called it a contender for the
world’s greatest food city.
There is no place in Mexico we love eating more than Mexico
City. Like Chicago, it’s our kind of town.
Posts:
Best thing I ate:
Am I
high-quality bread deprived? There are many great things to eat in Mexico City
but the bread was most inspiring the last time we were there.
I had no clue
after years of eating bolillos that they were suppose to taste like they do at El
Cardenal. I ate the entire basket they were that good…and asked for a second.
The waiter didn’t blink an eye so apparently a lot of people do the same thing.
Panadería Rosetta is in a class by itself when it comes to making lighter-than-air artisan breads.
Best
Restaurant:
Colima 166, Cuauhtémoc,
Roma Norte
Chef Elena Reygadas was
recently named the best female chef in Latin America and she built Rosetta's
reputation on using fresh, seasonal ingredients.
Meals here are a
spiritual experience; the kind that you can still taste and dream about long
after you've eaten them.
Go when they open to get
one of the coveted, outdoor tables.
Restaurante El
Cardenal
A short trek down the
hill in San Angel, Restaurante El Cardenal, Av. de la Paz Núm. 32, Colonia San
Ángel, was perhaps the best
combination on food, service and atmosphere that we’ve had in Mexico. Try the Mixiotes.
Maximo Bistrot
At Tonalá 133 in Colonia Roma, Chef
Eduardo Garciá never studied gastronomy but developed his skills in the
kitchens of Mexico City’s famous Pujol and Le Bernardin in New York. Need I say
more? Sweetbreads to die
for.
Where to find Mexican street:
Inside Mercado San Juan
at Delicatessen La Jersey.
A complimentary glass of
wine, the Amigos over-stuffed sandwich with Serrano ham, Salami, Cocido, Lomo
Canadiense, Manchego National, Cabra and Parmesano topped with Salsa Artisanal
Botanera and a free Postre made with Mascarpone, strawberries, honey and
chocolate was just 65 pesos. When was the last time I had a fantastic lunch for $4.25? It's
now on my growing list of cheap eats in Mexico City.
Food Writer Nicholas
Gilman knows Mexico City better than just about any food lover out there. Read
his book, Good Food in Mexico
City: A Guide to Food Stalls, Fondas and Fine Dining, like it was the bible before you
visit. You’ll know exactly where to go for the best of everything when you
arrive.
You’ve got to experience
them just once: Central
de Abastos/La Nueva Viga
Central de Abastos is
Mexico City’s main wholesale market for produce
and other foodstuffs. La Nueva Viga is the largest seafood market in
Mexico and the second largest in the world. Get
there early because a lot of the freshest stuff is gone by mid-day.
Expect to get lost.
Mercado de San Juan is
the destination for Mexico City’s chefs and you'll find plenty of them
wandering this market for some of the best food in DF.
You'll be tempted to
spend all of your mad money in one place.
The Bajio region is set across Mexico’s central highlands and includes the cities of San Miguel de Allende, Queretaro and Guanajuato.
Up until recently, culinary experts had nothing good to say about
the food. Then along came significant numbers of expatriates, entrepreneurs and
foreigners relocating to the area and suddenly you can savor anything from
Mexican to International and gourmet classics.
One thing is for sure; the culinary scene in the Bajio is as diverse
and vibrant as the region itself.
After a recent trip to Queretaro, I call the city Bajio’s rising
star. It’s not only the fastest growing economy in Mexico, but the food is both
exciting and unique…and it’s less than an hour from my front door in San Miguel.
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Post:
Best
thing I ate:
Chilaquiles@Especiero
Independencia #64, Centro
Historic
At Especiero, Chef
Emiliano Ayala is not afraid to mess with a classic. These Chilaquiles are made
with strips of fried corn tortillas and served up with cheese, poached eggs and
a pile of chicken. Salsa verde is poured over the dish at the table so it never
turns soggy before you hit the bottom of the bowl. It is the perfect cure for a
wild night that didn’t end until Especiero unlocked the doors.
Gordo Santo@Cardosanto
16 Circuito a Jardin Sour
Food lesson No. 1: When
it comes to hamburgers, calories don’t count. And at Cardosanto, these people
know how to accessorize grilled meat; super-sized by adding a mountain of
bacon. The accompanying fries are treated to a peppering of thyme and Parmesan.
You’ll leave satisfied; that is, if you can get out of your chair.
Best Restaurant:
Cocono Restaurante Bar
Blvrd. Bernardo Quintana
18, Calesa
Blending old traditions with new techniques, people are
singing the praises of this food establishment and I can see why. Every typical
Mexican plate brings something different. From
eye-catching drinks like Lemonada with chia seeds and spearmint and the
delicious Margarita Maracuy to meat platters grilled and served with a salsa of
habanero and chile de árbol and a pile of requeson to cut the heat, just about
everything at Cocono's will grab your attention including the service.
Where to find Mexican street:
Taco de Chamorro@Don
Chamorro
73 y 74, La cruz
Smother the best pork leg
taco in Queretaro with onions, cilantro and pico de gallo and you’re in for a
serious feast. Go for the visuals; broad-shouldered men stirring a giant copper
vat of pig parts with little paddles. Pair with a Mexican Coca-Cola that will
bring on a welcomed sugar rush. If you take it to go, you’ll fight the urge to
break into the package on your way home; an indulgence you’ll probably not want
to share.
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Torta de Carnits@Las
Tortugas
Anda 5 De Mayo 27
This torta de carnita,
topped with a secret tomato sauce, has been served for more than 59 years and
is Mexican comfort food taken to the next level. Also flavoring this
mouthwatering sandwich? Plain old yellow mustard. I’m addicted to the
combination. It’s similar to a Sloppy Joe, only with pork and a lot messier.
This is a symphony of flavors sandwich lovers will hear over and over in their
heads. Bring a bib and a pocketful of small change.
A market adventure:
Walking around Mercado de
la Cruz is a feast for the eyes… and nose. Many of the chefs and locals in
town shop here for just-picked ingredients, meats and fresh dairy.
It’s a photographer’s
paradise…for a change; everyone here wants you to take their picture.
Classic bar:
Bar Alquimia
5 de Mayo 71, Centro
Just one block from Plaza
de Armas, this attractive, little cantina-style bar caught my eye and it was
love at first sight. Get there early or you are likely to spend the night
standing. Great place to meet locals. Open from 18:00 to 2:30 hrs; Closed
on Sundays and Mondays.
Guanajuato
Post:
Best food I ate:
Chamorro Las Mercedes@
Las Mercedes
This family recipe of
tender and juicy pork shank was cooked in its own juices and served in a broth
with tomatoes and black beans. This is a.k.a. beyond delicious.
Calle de Arribe 6.
Arrachera@Casa Valadez
This restaurant was
always jam-packed, mainly with Mexicans, which is a testament to the
consistency and quality of their food. I ate there four times and all of them
were great food experiences.
I've been known to judge
a restaurant by its Arrachera and this one was cooked to perfection. Slight
char on the outside with a beautiful, pink center…just the way it's supposed to
be. At Jardin Union 3.
Best Restaurant:
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Las Mercedes
This wasn’t even a
contest. At Calle de Arribe 6, Las Mercedes is a beautiful restaurant up the
hill in the San Javier residential district just 10 minutes from downtown.
Authentic, small and known for personal service, all of the family’s recipes
are classics. Make a reservation. Best time to go is when they open.
Where to find Mexican
street:
Guacamaya Sandwich at
Hidalgo Market
Ok, I'll admit this
sandwich was a lot easier to look at than it was to eat. This signature street food sandwich is
made of pork skin, fresh avocado, and a super-spicy pico de gallo that is added
to a special sauce made with chiles de arbol. It’s
the most unhealthy sandwich on the planet... but it’s so good.
A market adventure:
Hidalgo
Market looks like a turn of the last century train station. It’s full of wonderful aromas that will tempt you to stay all day.
The left door
leads into the Gavira Market where there are traditional eateries with all
sorts of Mexican foods to eat. Plaza de Gavira, on the opposite entrance, functions as an open
air market.
I prefer the
food stands inside Hidalgo Market. They are dependable and a much better buy.
Classic Bar:
La Clave Azul Restaurante
Taberna is
a little, well-hidden, attraction located on Segunda De Cantaritos 31 up
a tiny, hidden alleyway from Plaza San Fernando that you would never find on
your own.
This old, two story
cantina that is more like a museum with its unusual artifacts including old
chandeliers, cameras, posters and photos.
You can grab a craft beer
or get a taste of Mezcal, both of them made in Guanajuato.
It’s all in the family
and that’s the way they like it.
San Miguel de Allende
Best Experience:
Mole Lessons; You Don't Need 21
Ingredients to Make a Mole
After taking mole lessons
with the abuela who can make it with her eyes closed (I was kidding but she did close them), I can honestly say it was time consuming but a lot easier than I
had expected. Beautifully complex with top notes of smoke and undertones
of chilies, the depth of flavor had such an authenticity that even I was amazed
at how few ingredients could go into a mole and still deliver that wonderful,
rich taste.
Working with chilies is a
class or two or three in itself. The experience helped me get through a recent
6 hour session when making Andy’s Tacos al Pastor.
Best things to eat in
San Miguel:
Burnt Caramel Ice Cream
Sundae@ The Restaurant
Give into temptation. At
Donnie Masterson's restaurant, known for its anything but predictable
offerings, this exquisite dessert takes sweet indulgence to the next level. The
custom made Ambrosia ice cream is swimming in caramel then laced with
marshmallow and a sprinkling of cacahuates. Throw out the calorie book on this
one. This confectionery masterpiece is almost too beautiful to eat.
Huevos Rancheros@Lavanda
Best Rooftop
Restaurants:
Jicama Taco@La Azotea
The signature dish of
this popular rooftop bar in Centro is a slice of Jicama filled with lightly
breaded shrimp and topped with fried leeks, mayo with chipotle and a tamarind
sauce. These tacos are so light you can easily polish off two or three. Go
after 7PM to catch the beautiful Parroquia views. Best staff in town. It's
everything you want a restaurant/bar to be and then some. Umaran 6.
Luna Rooftop Tapas Bar
- Rosewood Hotel
Because this is one of
the most luxurious hotels in the city, people often dismiss this restaurant/bar
as being too pricey. Think again.
Delicious Cochinita Pibil Tacos and Martinis for
$7 on Tuesday night. No matter what you spend, totally worth the 360-degree
view of San Miguel’s most beloved landmark, the Parroquia. At Nemesio Diez 11.
Where to find Mexican
street:
Flautas de Pollo@El Tucan
At SMA's favorite cheap
eat, these rolled tacos are overstuffed with chicken and topped with so many
healthy vegetables you'll forget they were ever fried in a pan of oil to begin
with. Bring a hearty appetite and leave your Spanish dictionary at home. Alex
cooked for many years in Chicago and speaks textbook English. The bonus? You'll
leave with a full stomach and a pocketful of change.
Mixiotes@El Pato
The next best thing to
your mother's pot roast, Mixiotes is a traditional, pit-barbecued meat dish
made of lamb that is cut with the bone and seasoned with pasilla, guajillo and
spices like cumin, thyme, marjoram, bay leaves, cloves and garlic. It's then
wrapped in small bundles and cooked in the ground overnight. At this thatched-roof
palapa at the end of Canal Street, Pilar and Jose Luis will convince you there
is no better dish anywhere in Mexico. If it weren't for the location, this spot
would have a line around the block every day. Take a doggy bag because it's
even better the next day.
Every evening at 7PM,
there’s a long line at Andy's Taco in Centro. The mere aroma attracts
aficionados who jockey for one of the few seats and a small plate of savory
Tacos Al Pastor. The pork is marinated in dried chiles, spices and pineapple
and is slow-cooked on a vertical rotisserie then covered with a spicy, red
chipotle salsa. Andy's is a favorite of partygoers looking for an after-hours
feast and still intoxicated by the magic of the fiesta. Hidalgo and Insurgentes.
Post: Eating your way through the Tianguis de los Martes
(Tuesday Market)
Two of my
favorite stands at this market are:
Carnitas@Bautista Brothers
Carnitas should come with
a warning label. What makes these porky bits so addictive is that they are
simmered in lard until fork tender. Bautista Brothers have pop-up stands all
over San Miguel including several at Tianguis de Martes. In a torta or a
tortilla, this dish is certain to make your list of all-time favorites. Fights
will erupt over a communal plate so get your own.
Barbacoa@Robinson Family Barbacoa Stand
This is Barbacoa at its
very best; lamb wrapped in maguey leaves and cooked in the ground overnight.
It's on the breakfast menu and this stand is an early morning favorite at San
Miguel's Tianguis de Martes. Grab a half cup of caldo and an extra helping of
Barbacoa, then load up with chopped cilantro, onions and a squeeze of lime. You
wouldn't crave another thing all day.
Puebla
One of the many reasons that people go to Puebla, in the eastern
region of Mexico, is to eat. The quality of food, from the market stalls to the
finest tables in the city, is unparalleled. Stay for a month and I guarantee
you’ll still have too many places to explore. I’m back there later this summer
for another look.
Post:
Best thing I ate:
Cemita@Cemitas Las Polentas in Mercado del Carmen. In fact, this is one of my favorite dishes in all of Mexico. I’ve had it at many other places in Puebla but none of them compared to Cemitas Las Polentas.
You’ve got to see the
operation just to appreciate how much labor and love goes into this sandwich.
It’s gigantic but somehow
I managed to eat the whole thing.
Best Restaurant:
Restaurant Purificadora
Callejon de la 10 Norte 80
I know, there are a lot
of great places to go in Puebla like Meson
Sacristia de la Compania which
has a higher rating than Restaurant Purificadora and we thought it was good but
I happened to have an almost perfect meal at Restaurant Purificador which showcases
Puebla’s food traditions as interpreted by noted chef, Enrique Olvera from
Mexico City’s famous Pujol restaurant.
Where to find Mexican
street:
Molotes are made by street vendors in the alley across from the Jardín del Carmen and are a quick and easy breakfast.
Taco Aribe, invented by Puebla's Lebanese immigrants, are rich tacos served on a thick flour tortilla much like a pita. The meat is marinated in a blend of garlic, spices, serrano and other chilies. It is then rotisserie-cooked until the aromatics almost melt into the meat. It’s carved off a vertical rotisserie and topped with a salsa of puréed chipotle peppers, an everyday Poblano ingredient. Purists claim that real Tacos Arabe is made by layering pork loin and onions on a spit and then slowly roasting everything over very hot coals.
Some of the best Tacos
Arabe can be found at the markets or on just about every back street in
Puebla.
A market adventure:
Mercado San Pedro at Cholula
Located about 15 minutes
from Puebla on on Avenida
Hidalgo, which is the main street in Cholula's Centro Historico, is one of my favorite markets in Mexico
for genuine food experiences. I saw everything at this market including a guy
who hauled a pig across his back the entire length of the market. Fascinating
and lovably local.
Guadalajara
Western Mexico includes the beautiful city of Guadalajara, Mexico’s second largest city.
Guadalajara is known
for one of the most recognizable Mexican things in Mexico...TEQUILA.
Needless to say,
Tequila is the first thing I discovered in Mexico back when I was 17…and it was
definitely not Don Julio.
Post:
Best thing I ate:
Shrimp Al Pastor@
Cocina 88
Rich, smoky and really
outstanding, Cocina 88 is in an old,
turn of the century mansion at Vallerta 1342, Colonia Americana in Guadalajara.
Best Restaurant:
Since there were no
gusanos in the kitchen that day (usually tossed in garlic, onions and a little
tequila), we ordered a plate of grasshopper tacos. Surprisingly, they were
delicious. They are fed apples and roasted in lime chili and salt. The end
product is a nutty, crispy, salty and spicy delicacy. It might change your mind
about eating bugs.
We also loved the sopes
with bone marrow, pork and chicharrón.
La Tequila is located
on Avenida Mexico 2830 in Colonia Ladron de Guevar.
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Where to find Mexican street:
You don’t have to look
too hard. It’s on just about every street corner and in the neighboring towns
of both Tonola and Tlaquepaque. Make sure
you go to both. Tlaquepaque is a beautiful town known for its charm and
shopping. Tonala is recognized for its famous Thursday/Sunday market.
A market adventure:
In the city: Mercado
Libertad, one of the largest covered markets in Mexico at Javier Mina Y Calzada
Independencia. Food stalls are all on the second floor.
This is the first
market I went to in Mexico. It hasn’t changed much in the past 40 years except
it’s gotten a lot bigger… and they sell music. There are still some of the same
vendors here as there were 40 years ago. Savor the Mexico Moments at this
market as there will be too many to count them.
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Oaxaca
Southwestern Mexico
includes my favorite food city, Oaxaca.
I fell undeniably in
love with Oaxaca’s rich, complicated dishes that are layered with flavors and
deep rooted in traditions…like black mole.
From chocolate,
grasshoppers, mezcal, grilled meats and more classes of chili peppers and moles
than you can hope to remember, Oaxaca is a food culture all its own.
Posts:
Best thing I ate:
It took just one plate of dark, rich, and wonderfully sweet and spicy black mole to convince me this was it.
Best Restaurant:
Catedral Restaurante and
Bar, 105 Garcia Virgil
Black mole with organic
turkey confit accompanied by refried beans, rice and plantain sliced.
Beef filet with smoked
chili, plums and Mezcal sauce and mashed potatoes.
Where to find Mexican
street:
The grilled meat section in Oaxaca’s 20 de Noviembre market is dark and smoky but the food is delicious. It's a meat lover’s paradise. That would be me.
I Use To Be Afraid Of Bugs; Now I Eat Them!
Gusanos (maguey worms),
Jumiles (stink bugs), Chicatanas (giant winged ants), Escamoles (ant larvae)
oftentimes referred to as insect caviar, Ahuatle (water-fly eggs), Cuchamás
(green caterpillars), Chapulines (grasshoppers), Alacránes (scorpions),
Libélulas (dragonflies), and Escarabajos (beetles).
I haven't tried an insect I didn't like.
I haven't tried an insect I didn't like.
A market adventure:
The culinary climate in
Oaxaca is the most exciting in Mexico and attracts both chefs and foodies
alike. The markets are a good
start for understanding just why that is.
20 de Noviembre Market
Did I tell you that the
20th of November is my birthday so no wonder I had such a connection to this
market. It's the culinary heart of Oaxaca.
It's mainly food and
produce which includes my favorite section: Carnes Asadas. It's located indoors
on the east side of the market. Meat
stalls line both sides of a very wide aisle. You can barely see through the
smoke except when sunlight streams in through the ceiling. It's mystical.
BBQ chefs are competing
to sell you meats and sausages while their assistants, with small woven fans,
struggle to keep the flames under control while they cook.
Once you've selected your
meat and vegetables, you are led to a table where you are offered
accompaniments like fresh-made tortillas, salsas and guacamole.
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Road Trips...
San Pablo Etla on
Wednesday, Ocotlan on Friday and Sunday in Tlacolula; you haven't seen real
life in Mexico until you've gone out to one of the small towns where indigenous
people from villages all over the central valleys of Oaxaca come for market day.
It’s the best culinary
experience you’ll have in Mexico. Grab a collectivo for the experience.