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20°35′15″N
100°23′34″W. Mexico’s best kept secret. Querétaro!
With the
fastest growing economy in Mexico, Querétaro is a picturesque city known for
its mix of 17th and 18th century Baroque architecture and its thoroughly modern buildings.
There is construction everywhere you look.
There is construction everywhere you look.
Some have
compared Querétaro to Alicante, Spain...minus the ocean.
Crawl inside Querétaro
and you’re likely to stay awhile. It feels just like home.
Call it a
mini-Mexico City. In fact, ask anyone
who has moved here recently and many will tell you they’re from Mexico City and
repositioned for a better life. Querétaro is renowned for the highest quality
of life in Mexico.
The city is
expected to increase in size about 35% over the next 20 years. It’s one of the safest
and cleanest cities in Mexico.
Cost of
living? its’ less than both Mexico City and San Miguel de Allende.
Gringos? not
many so better start practicing your Spanish.
Modern?
Querétaro’s downtown is the first in all of Latin America to be wireless.
The high
speed train between Querétaro and Mexico City? Not canceled, just
postponed.
Moving here?
For now, I’m just excited that a city I somewhat know and love a lot is less
than an hour from my doorstep.
Querétaro: The Culinary Scene
My trip to Querétaro was an eye-opener. There are not only many fine dining restaurants offering upscale Mexican food and also wonderful cafés, cafeterias, taquerias and street eats waiting to seduce the food lover.
According to
Trip Advisor, there are already 371 restaurants and Querétaro continues to add premium
eating spots every day.
Walking
around Mercado de la Cruz is a feast for the eyes… and nose.
Just take a look at how fresh this seafood is. The only other place I found seafood this fresh was at the Mercado de San Juan in Mexico City.
Mercado de la Cruz also happens to be one of my favorite markets in the Bajío region because just about everyone is eager to have their picture taken.
On the Wine
and Cheese route between Tequisquiapan and Querétaro, there are farms producing
remarkable Mexican and European artisan cheeses. The vineyards have the ideal
climate and soil for making excellent wines; all testimony to the fact that
Querétaro's culinary scene is flourishing.
Try the
Bodegas de Cote winery at Libramiento Norponiente km. 5+900, Ezequiel Montes,
for an enjoyable day trip and some out of the ordinary wine selections.
Creating "The List"
Photo from Chef Edgar
The list of
where to eat came together rather quickly. On the first draft were the two
chefs I stayed with, Edgar and Laurent.
When we were
drafting it, I asked Laurent why a certain restaurant was not on the list and
he simply replied “No love in the food.” Passion is everything when it comes to
cooking.
Among the
many celebrated restaurants in France where he cooked, Veracruz native Edgar
was at the renowned Le Quinzième in
Paris with Michelin-starred chef Cyril Lignac.
French born Laurent is a former Mechanical Engineer turned chef. With
that broad path of engineering skills at hand, he immediately applied it to
cooking with impressive results.
Together as a team they make magic in the kitchen. It was an immediate
coup de foudre.
One morning, I observed them making pastry for Sucre Sale Delicatessen (Av. Universidad Oriente 42 in Centro Querétaro) and I was astonished at their technique. Why did making French pastry look so easy when I knew it wasn’t?
Their new pastry shop, La Maison Gourmande, at Felipe Luna 2 in Centro historico between 5 de Mayo y Santa Cruz Church, will be open in the next few weeks.
As for the
Holy Grail of what should be consumed in Querétaro, this list was drafted by
Chefs Edgar and Laurent and Ernesto and Sally of Casa Peti Bed and Breakfast.
All of them have an educated taste when it comes to food.
Especiero
Independencia
#64, Centro Historic
This
restaurant, with a French cafe feel, is renowned for their sandwiches but it’s
also one of my favorite breakfast spots.
Some of the
best Chilaquiles made with strips of fried corn tortillas served with cheese, poached
eggs, and chicken. Their secret? Pour the sauce over the dish at table so it
never turns soggy before you hit the bottom of the bowl.
Laurent was sweet on the Waffle with strawberries and bacon as if he was suddenly transported back to France with a single bite.
Cocono
Restaurante Bar
Blvrd
Bernardo Quintana 18, Calesa
Blending old traditions
with new techniques, people are singing the
praises of this food establishment and I can see why. Every typical Mexican
plate brings something different.
From eye-catching
drinks like Lemonade with chia seeds and spearmint and the delicious Margarita
Maracuy to meat platters grilled and served with a salsa of habanero and chile
de árbol and a pile of requeson to cut the heat, just about everything at
Cocono's will grab your attention…especially the service.
5DMayo Experimental
Calle
5 de Mayo 128
A 7-course menu with new and interesting flavors. 5-star and totally worth the spend. You'll leave this place wondering what's on the menu next weekend. Make a reservation in advance.
NOTE: As of October, 2015, 5DMayo Experimental has a new chef. We have not eaten the food there since this posting done so we cannot recommend this restaurant until we go back.
Elea Restaurante Griego Greek
Av.
Manufactura 48-9, Parques del Alamo, Plaza
Bosques
Plenty of
authentic Greek indulgences but the perfectly seasoned pork leg is just too
good to pass up.
16
Circuito a Jardin Sour
Food lesson #1: When it
comes to hamburgers, calories don’t count.
They don’t get any bigger
or better than this one. Supersized? Try the GordoSanto, piled high with a tower of bacon or the
CardoSanto, topped with everything and then an egg.
The salmon burger is
one of the best cooked a la parilla and served with cream cheese and capers.
Not sharing my fries treated to a peppering of thyme and parmesan.
La Sirena Gorda
Calz. De Los Arcos 25, Jardines de Querétaro
Just like San
Miguel only bigger.Legendary at
both locations for their Margarita de Jengibre.
Logan's
Beer House
De Los
Arcos, Jardines de Querétaro
Order the
fish and chips and select from a large variety of artisan craft beers from all
over the world. Come thirsty and stay late. Great views of the aqueduct.
Taberna
El Quillo
Paseo
de la Republica 135, Cuitláhuac
This classic
tavern-restaurant has an extensive menu that's hard to narrow down but Spanish
natives swear this is the most authentic ticket in town.
The chef dishes
out so many impressive eats, you’ll want to start planning your next vacation
in Alicante.
Alioli Gastro Bar
16 de Sept #28
There is a
reason this place is often the #1 restaurant in Queretaro. The food is prepared
by people who have been trained in Michelin Star restaurants in Spain.
In other
words, as Laurent would say, there is so much love in this food; you wouldn’t
need any other reason to come back.
Tikua Sur Este
Ignacio
Allende 13
Mexican moles
and pickled grasshoppers? A varied menu with an emphasis on Oaxaca, Yucatan,
Chiapas, Capeche and Tabasco cooking.
Tikua is a
favorite that will not disappoint even the most hard to please eater. Look
for the superb recommendations for vegetarians and vegans. Sit on the patio and
drink in the murals...and San Miguel's favorite beer, Dos Aves.
Av 5
De Mayo 125
Indulge
yourself with pickled pork legs, turkey and all your favorite regional cooking. With
over 50 years of history, this place has a record to maintain. Don’t leave without
trying the gorditas.
El9
Restaurante Lounge Yucateco
Blvd.
Bernardo Quintana #9, Alamos 2a Secc
You would
think by now I was beginning to feel a bit of overkill when it came to Chamorro.
Never too much where this Chamorro al Pibil is concerned because it’s better
than almost everywhere else in Querétaro.
Hacienda La Laborcilla
Prolongación
Corregidora Norte 911-Bis, Parques Residenciales
This visual
stunner is like no other in the city. A renovated hacienda, you’ll want to come
here for the architecture but the food, wine and service are superb draws as well.
Fine cuts of
meat and a great wine list make this worthy of a repeat.
Maria y Su Bici
Calle
5 de Mayo 91, Centro
Go for genuine
Oaxaca and grab an order of the Tacos de Chapulines with a glass of tasty, chili-dusted
margaritas.
This rather touristy
restaurant has some of the most extraordinary decor around so bring your
camera.
Love thy
neighbor as the communal tables give you a chance to get to know everyone in
the place before you finish your dessert.
Cafe
Breton
Andador
Libertad #82
The owner is
from Bretagne and the food is dependably French. A great breakfast and lunch so
you pick.
My philosophy?
You can never get your fill of French food so go again tomorrow.
Restaurante Orange
Meson
Santa Rosa Hotel
Calle
Luis Pasteur Sur 17, Centro Historico
The
see-and-be-seen spot for coffee or a drink. Best to dress like Angelica Rivera.
Not the most warm and cozy owners but a charming site to watch the beautiful people
of Querétaro walk by.
San Miguelito
Andador
5 de Mayo 39, Centro Historico
Owned by the
brother-in-law of Claudia, SMA’s beloved pie professional, you’ve got to go for
a drink and an appetizer (the beef carpaccio) at this visual tour de
force.
Pure fiesta décor
that’s tiled inside and out. Stunning, one-of-a-kind table place settings
you’ll want to gather up and take home with you. Too bad you don’t have seating
for 200+
Calle
Angela Peralta 7, Centro Historico
Enchiladas verdes con pollo and a homemade milkshake for breakfast? Let’s get a little
adventurous because this place is a slice of Mexico… 50 years ago.
One of the oldest and most
traditional restaurants in the city is
always full to
capacity but the sweets make it totally worth the wait.
Calufe
5de
Mayo 99A
This petite coffee
house serves high-quality brew from Veracruz. Ask them to open a bin and soak in
the aroma of the beans.
Drink up and savor the history. I got excited just thinking
the beans were picked by worn hands and voyaged all the way across Mexico to
end up in my cup. A daily indulgence.
5 de
Mayo 71, Centro
Just one
block from Plaza de Armas, this attractive, little cantina-style bar caught my
eye and it was love at first sight. Get there early or you are likely to spend
the night standing. Great place to meet locals who will end up being your BFF’s
by the end of the night. Open from 18:00 to 2:30 hrs; Closed
on Sundays and Mondays.
Street Eats...
Don Chamorro
73 y
74, La cruz
When the
owner pulled out a leg so I could see just how much meat is on one, I almost
dove in the pot. That’s how good this dish looked.
Smother the best
pork leg taco in Querétaro with onions, cilantro and pico de gallo and you’re
in for a serious feast. Bring a bib and a pocketful of change.
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Las Tortugas
Anda 5
De Mayo 27
Institution
status? This carnita torta with its secret tomato sauce has been served by Las
Tortugas for over 59 years.
Also
flavoring this mouth-watering torta? Plain old mustard. I am addicted to the
combination which became my breakfast for the two mornings while I was there.
This pork
Sloppy Joe was more than an appetizing deal at 39 pesos each.
Tortas Nico
Calle
Independencia #13
The line at
this torta shop convinced me that something inspirational was coming out of the
kitchen.
Try the Torta
de Milanesa which was the favorite of everyone waiting to get a first bite.
A tasty, local
choice, where nobody’s leaving until their number is up.
Las Gorditas del Portal
Corregidora
15B Sur
Chalk up
another one for the vegetarians. My new favorite gordita is stuffed with just two
ingredients: Guacamole and Oaxaca cheese.
There’s something in the Guacamole that makes this better than just about every other one I’ve tried…
and true to
the name, I ate a bunch of them.
La Cabaña
Avenida
Constituyentes 130
Best Cabrito in town?
The mastermind behind the cooking has been here since 1957.
Rivals the famous El Rey del Cabrito in
Monterrey? You tell me.
This is one local
specialty where you have to eat the skin, it’s that good. Go for another
helping. No vegetarians allowed.
Barbacoa Santiago
Carretera
Mexico-Queretaro Km. 152, San Juan del Río, QRO
This cash only
place off the highway is now world-famous. Blame it on Chowzter, the gastronomy
powerhouse out of London who awarded Barbacoa Santiago with the title of “best
taco in the world.” Since then, it’s seen carloads of visitors hungry for both
the food and the experience. BEST TACO IN THE WORLD
This
pit-cooked, Mexican-style barbacoa is a flavor epiphany. Bring a $20 bill and call
it the best food ritual in Querétaro. Can we go
again tomorrow?
Other tasty distractions …
Sabores
Boutique Gourmet
Av
Universidad 33, Centro Histórico
This place is
packed with things to stir up your taste buds. A routine stop on its wine
tasting circuit will trigger your addiction to all of its outstanding reds.
Juan B. Alcocer 236, Candiles, Qro.
Expect the
wurst because there’s nothing better than wonderful homemade sausages made to
order using old world recipes and ingredients.
Roll out the
BBQ and order a barrel of anything that slightly resembles sauerkraut. Make up
a batch of German potato salad, close your eyes and swear this isn’t Berlin.
I’m so there.
The Food Trucks…
Querétaro's food
trucks gather once a month on Friday and Saturday to put on a not-so-ordinary
feast.
Some of the
best food comes from these mobile eateries; taste the burgers at La Burguesia
and Bisrroka and have a bite at one a favorite of my favorite trucks, Chef on
Fuego, who also spends a fair amount of time in San Miguel.
Sweet Dreams…
Instead of
making this a day-trip destination or a place to shop as many people in the
area do, I suggest going for a week; you’ll want to stay a lot longer.
LA CASA DE LOS CHEFS is in the Alamos section of town and an easy 20 minute walk to town. You’ll walk through green spaces with walking paths much of the way.
The chefs
have a beautiful French style bedroom with the most comfortable bed and linens.
I slept like a baby and had a great week with Edgar and Laurent.
If you want the
chefs to cook for you, be sure to ask for pricing and menu selections in
advance. Don’t miss this experience because the food was beyond magnificent.
Book this
room with Airbnb at the link below but please leave some nights for me.
Casa Peti
Many of you remember Ernesto from Red Tree House in Mexico City. So happy that he is one step closer to San Miguel.
When I went
for a visit, the space was starting to come alive. Sally was planting gorgeous flowers
to pave the center courtyard and Ernesto’s sister Alexandra, the head architect, had all
the tile designs laid out in her head. Getting them done is just a matter of
time. It is a huge
work in progress and they currently have 4 rooms completed with one of them already
occupied by a long-term guest.
When they’re completed,
you'll want to bring your extended family, a wedding party or a large group of
friends to this property; it's the perfect spot to reconnect right in the
middle of downtown Querétaro. Just don't forget to invite me to the party.
Book at this
airbnb link :
Shopping:
You can take
a full weekend just for shopping in Querétaro . You’ll want to check out these
stores along with the new Antea
LifeStyle Center at Paseo de la
Republica with many high-end stores and restaurants.
Luba Arte Dulce
Calle
5 de Mayo #100
An amusing candy store stocked with the sweetest of treats. Go
here and you’ll remember why you’re still a big kid at heart.
Hecho a Mano y Mas
Calle
5 de Mayo #60
Want something authentically Querétaro? This is the place to buy
it with artists from all over the state contributing to the stash.
Take a part of Mexico home with you…
Don’t you just love it
when people accuse you of always picking the
perfect gift? Abrazos pretty much has
all of my Mexico-manias covered…tequila, piñatas, mariachis, Day of the Dead, fiestas and
siestas, fireworks, Virgins, Frida’s, rosa mexicano, chili peppers, hugs and kisses…
Check out these Querétaro shops that carry products from Abrazos featuring San Miguel Designs by Patrice Wynn.
You may even want to buy something for yourself.
QUINTO
REAL
Reforma
80
MADRE
TIERRA
Andador
Libertad 35A