My first year in
Mexico has been one fantastic food adventure. I've discovered inexpensive and
delicious Mexican and South American wines, indulged in more than my fair share
of exquisite desserts, delighted in chapulines and other insects, devoured
classic and nontraditional cooking and sipped so many smoky mezcals that
picking my favorites for the year is challenging.
Part of the problem?
In the same year that I sampled more new foods than ever before, there were
very few things I tried that I didn't like. Yes, even the bugs.
In a year of travel,
food on the road was a revelation. Because so many of Mexico's vegetables,
fruits and grains are grown in the region, both the slow food and farm-to-table
movements have taken a strong hold here and promoting locally-sourced
ingredients has resulted in some outstanding and unpredictable food creations
like the Roasted Beetroot and Date Salad from 1826 Restaurant in the Rosewood Hotel.
Just take a look at the size
of the crowds at the Saturday Organic
Market where most of the top restaurant chefs shop.
Some of the best
dishes I ate this year were sandwiches I found in markets throughout Mexico.
From the Guacamaya at Guanajuato's Hidalgo
Market, to the Amigos at Delicatessen
La Jersey in Mercado San Juan,
Mexico City to my favorite, the Cemita at Cemitas
Las Polentas in the Mercado del
Carmen in Puebla, they are all classics, lovingly constructed with
top-notch ingredient and slathered with ridiculously good and unique flavoring
sauces. Here in San Miguel, it was El
Tucan's take on the American BTL that left me breathless.
What can I say about
the black mole in Oaxaca? It took just one plate of dark, rich, and
wonderfully sweet and spicy mole negro to convince me that it's the best thing
I've eaten in Mexico...ever!
And what's up with
bakery this year? From the better-than-Paris croissants at Cumpanio, the doughnuts at La
Buena Vida, and the hot onion focaccia at MiVida, I'm certain I must have been Italian in another life.
Desserts? With Magnolia Bakery opening in Mexico City
this past week, the driving distance to a carton of this world class guilty
pleasure (banana pudding) just got shorter...by 1743 miles. And how can you
find anything better than the Burnt Caramel Ice Cream Sundae at
The Restaurant? It's the same
flavor-driving force that also makes their gorgeous panna cotta. I just might
be living in San Miguel for the desserts.
.jpg)
This was also the year
for premium drinks, especially variations of the classic Margarita cocktail. I
still love the Margaritas at Hotel Sautto
and Cafe Rama, but I savored the
fresh and delightful taste of a Pineapple Margarita at The Restaurant, the Ginger Margarita at La Sirena Gorda, the Tamarind Margarita at La Posadita and a Pepino y Cilantro (Cucumber with Cilantro)
Margarita at La Mezcaleria.
After years of not
drinking dark beers because I thought they were too bitter, I fell in love
with a Mexican favorite: Baja Brewing
Company's Baja Black. It's now my standard for dark beer.
I'll be the first to
admit that taste is partially subjective. Things like smell, texture,
color, or even the mood you're in will influence how you taste food so not
everyone will agree with my picks this year. In fact, I recently took a
poll of favorites in San Miguel and got totally different answers from everyone
including one food lover who likes a particular restaurant because it makes him
feel like he's eating at home. Add atmosphere to that list.
Here are just
some of your favorites:
Steak and tuna tartare
at Cumpanio
Chiles en Nogada from Bugambilia
Tortilla soup at Correo Restaurant
Cochinita Pibil at La Posadita
Seven Taco plate at Tacos Don Felix
For "good"
food - Hecho' s Cobb Salad...for
"bad" food - Hecho's
bacon guagamole cheese burger
Short ribs at Firenze
BLT from Osvaldos
Stuffed shrimp,
grilled with bacon, churro beans and rice at El Rinconcito
Huitlacoche and Squash
Blossom Soup at Nirvana
The Margarita Pizza at
Casa Chiquita
The Pork Hock at La Sirena Gorda
Tuna Carpaccio at Antiqua Trattoria Romana
Arrachera and Cheese
Tacos at Muro
Mine? From delicious,
traditional Mexican to new takes on old recipes, these are the dishes
and restaurants that defined my year.
Buen Apetito!
Best Dish: Mixiotes@El Pato
The next best thing to
your mother's pot roast, Mixiotes is a traditional, pit-barbecued meat dish
made of lamb that is cut with the bone and seasoned with pasilla, guajillo and
spices like cumin, thyme, marjoram, bay leaves, cloves and garlic. It's then wrapped
in small bundles and cooked in the ground overnight. At this thatched-roof
palapa at the end of Canal Street, Pilar and Jose Luis will convince you there
is no better dish anywhere in Mexico. If it weren't for the location, this spot
would have a line around the block every day. Take a doggy bag because it's
even better the next day.
Best Meat: Prime Rib@Hansen's
A heavenly cut of
prime rib is the Saturday night special. Call and reserve in advance. Totally
worth the splurge. Hansen's cooks their Prime Rib in a custom built clay oven
on low and slow so it's never available before 5 PM. Restaurateur Dick Weber,
one of the owners, is the mastermind behind all of Hansen's great recipes. Come
hungry and pass on a strong Margarita until after you eat. You'll want to savor
every bite of this beefy feast.
Best Salad: Roasted Beetroot and Date
Salad@1826 Restaurant
1826 restaurant serves
dishes made with the highest quality ingredients like Roasted Beetroot and Date
Salad. Caramelized pumpkin seeds, rocket lettuce, marinated cherry tomatoes,
fine herbs vinaigrette, Granny Smith Ice Cream and Medjol dates make an
artistic and delicious mix. The magic is in the ice cream, the ingredient that
really works and pulls all of the flavors together. Food snobbery at it's
finest. Pass the check to your dinner date. With so many great things on the
menu, we can't wait to see what they come up with next.
Best Presentation: Huevos Rancheros@Lavanda
How does this popular
restaurant make perfect poached eggs look like little balls of Oaxaca cheese?
Chef Karla's drop-dead gorgeous presentation comes from her training as a
graphic artist. She's armed with a portfolio of her mother's classic recipes
including this picture-perfect version of the dish. The taste will astonish
even the most die-hard Eggs Benedict lover who has never given a second look at
this Mexican standard.
Best Dessert: Burnt Caramel Ice Cream Sundae@
The Restaurant
Give into temptation.
At Donnie Masterson's restaurant, known for its anything but predictable
offerings, this exquisite dessert takes sweet indulgence to the next level. The
custom made Ambrosia ice cream is swimming in caramel then laced with
marshmallow and a sprinkling of cacahuates. Throw out the calorie book on this
one. This confectionery masterpiece is almost too beautiful to eat.
Best Chops: Lamb Chops@Paprika
Francine Llano Lory
delivers these perfectly cooked lamb chops and to my delight they are a teaser because everything on the Paprika menu shines. Blink twice and you'll
swear you're in Italy. If you enjoy high end food at a great price this place is
a must. You'll get lost in the atmosphere. Check out the little altar on your
left as you enter. The setting is almost as delicious as the food.
Best Ethnic Dish: Okonomiyaki@Casa de Cocinas
At Casa de Cocinas,
Chef Michael Coon creates an ever changing menu of ethnic dishes like this
Japanese pancake made with cabbage and shallots topped with crispy pork belly,
bonito flakes, Japanese mayo, bull dog sauce and toasted nori. 8 dinners later,
every one has been a four star experience. You will be rewarded with one
surprising dish after another.
Best Breakfast: Huevos Mexicanas@Oso Azul
This cafe is the place
to go for breakfast when you're looking for a healthy dose of fresh-made-daily
food and great conversation. Jockey for a spot at the communal table in the
courtyard. The cafe looks typically Scandinavian with its white walls and
blue-washed wooden tables and chairs. You might think for a minute you're in
Denmark. Scandinavians make some of the best food in the world and what's not
to love about this egg dish that is perfectly cooked in a miniature cast iron
skillet. Bring lots of friends as this is a more-the-merrier type of place.
Best Cheap Eat: Flautas de Pollo@El Tucan
At SMA's favorite
cheap eat, these rolled tacos are overstuffed with chicken and topped with so
many healthy vegetables you'll forget they were ever fried in a pan of oil to
begin with. Bring a hearty appetite and leave your Spanish dictionary at home.
Alex cooked for many years in Chicago and speaks textbook English. The
bonus? You'll leave with a full stomach and a pocketful of change.
Best Pop Up: Carnitas@Bautista Brothers
Carnitas should come
with a warning label. What makes these porky bits so addictive is that they are
simmered in lard until fork tender. Bautista Brothers have pop-up stands all
over San Miguel including several at Tianguis de Martes. In a torta or a
tortilla, this dish is certain to make your list of all-time favorites. Fights
will erupt over a communal plate so get your own.
Best Taco: Jicama Taco@La Azotea
The signature dish of
this popular rooftop bar in Centro is a slice of Jicama filled with lightly
breaded shrimp and topped with fried leeks, mayo with chipotle and a tamarind
sauce. These tacos are so light you can easily polish off two or three. Go
after 7PM to catch the beautiful Parroquia views. Best staff in town. It's
everything you wanted a restaurant/bar to be and then some.
Best Soup: Gazpacho@Provecho
Ecléctica cuisine at
this bistro where Irish owner Siobhan and her daughter Chef Joanna turn out
splendid food. I love all the soups especially this meal-in-a-bowl Gazpacho
where the vegetables are chunky and the garnishes top off all the wonderful
flavors of the soup. Ideal combination of bold and comforting. Show your art at the gallery in back. Check out the rich desserts. The best kept secret in San
Miguel.
Best Menu: Banana Fritter@Tapas SMA
The only problem I had
at Tapas sma was splitting the dessert. Let's get this straight-
I don't share
dessert...especially these melt in your mouth banana fritters. Go ahead and
order the entire rest of the menu though. I'll never have to convince anyone the
prices are great. Anders Litzen and his wife Kajsa of Los Senderos Bistro fame
opened this little gem that hit #1 on Trip Advisor in just 5 weeks. With the
exception of the Calamari, portions are very generous.
Best Comfort Food: Barbacoa@Robinson Family
Barbacoa Stand
This is Barbacoa at
its very best; lamb wrapped in maguey leaves and cooked in the ground
overnight. It's on the breakfast menu and this stand is an early morning
favorite at San Miguel's Tianguis de Martes. Grab a half cup of caldo and an
extra helping of Barbacoa, then load up with chopped cilantro, onions and a
squeeze of lime. You wouldn't crave another thing all day.
Best New Take On Old Recipes: Higaditos
Asaltados@La Parada
This Peruvian favorite
has many fantastic things on the menu like these Chicken Livers that are
stir-fried with soy sauce, chile paste, and a chile cream sauce. They have my
vote for not tasting anything like liver. Wash them down with the national
drink: a Pisco Sour. Appetizer? Try the fresh Salmon Ceviche. In a town with
dozens of great restaurants, this one stands out as one of the best.
Best Healthy Plate: Yogurt, Fruit and
Granola@Moxi at Hotel Matilda
One of the most $$$$$
hotels serves one of the least expensive breakfasts in San Miguel. Go figure.
Creamy Greek style yogurt with homemade granola and honey are set beside a pile
of fresh, seasonal fruit. And doesn't breakfast taste better served on china
instead of a paper plate? A superb pool view and outdoor seating make this spot
one of the most delicious deals in town.
Best Fast Food: Chicken@Broaster To Go
If you would have
asked me six months ago what food I missed the most, I would have said Big
Jones fried chicken cooked in a cast iron pan with fresh leaf lard, butter and
a ham hock. I gain weight just thinking about this southern dish. The next best
thing to fried chicken is broasted at this little take out place
with 4 tables if you decide to eat in. The skin is ultra-crispy. Ask them to
serve it hot. Just like your grandmother use to make. Sorry, there will be no
leftovers.
Best Drink: Bloody Alfredo@Cafe Rama
Pass on the breakfast
and drink up. I never gave the restorative Bloody Mary a second thought until I
couldn't get a good one. Earlier this year, my friend Alfredo taught the
bartender at Cafe Rama to mix this AM cure with plenty of primer and a dose of
real horseradish. Make them green with tomatillos. X 2= guaranteed AM
flush.
Best Pasta: Amatriciana@Hotel Sauto's
Bacco
What's the definition
of Southern Italian delicious? Amatriciana, served hot and made with fresh
tomatoes, smoked pancetta, garlic, onion and basil. Sit in the outdoor patio,
select a bottle of Valle de Guadalupe red from Cava Sautto and drink in the
ambiance of your own fiesta. Bacco will get you day dreaming about the San
Miguel that was. Richard Sautto is the ultimate host. Wear a shawl. Plan on
plenty of leftovers.