Mexico City...it never
says the same thing to me twice.
If I could use one
word to describe DF, it would be INTENSE. The colors, smells, tastes and scents
are a contrasting mixture where culinary options are endless.
Talk about diverse.
One minute you are sitting at Pujol, one of the top 50 Restaurants in the
world, savoring every remarkable bite and the next day you're at La Jersey Deli
in Mercado de San Juan having an incredible, multi-course meal for 65 pesos.
It's my idea of food
heaven where markets and street food are just some of the layers that make DF
the food city it is.
In fact, Chefs are
really pushing the boundaries these days. Restaurants infuse traditional tastes
with contemporary techniques to come up with their own version of
Mexican.
I was amazed recently
when a DF based foodie friend of mine rattled off 17 new restaurants to
try...and that was just his starter list.
Some of the
restaurants I've been to recently and loved are:
Maximo Bistrot Local -
Calle Tonalá 133, Roma
Pujol - Francisco
Petrarca 254, Polanco
San Angel Inn-
Delegación Alvaro Obregón, San Angel
Azul Condesa- Calle
Nuevo León 68, Condesa
Rosetta (Roma) -
Colima No166, Roma
Rincon Argentino
Polanco -Presidente Masaryk 177, Polanco
Contramar- Calle
Durango 200, Roma
Colonia Roma...
It's hard for me to
grasp that a glass of good white wine in a restaurant like Delirio is just 45
pesos/3.43 USD.
At this sidewalk café,
there is nothing sweeter than watching half of Roma wander by at 2:00 PM.
A number of people actually stopped to chat when they realized I was a solo
American.
I really like the feel
of this restaurant. It brought back great memories of sitting outside at the
cafés in Paris.
Ask what kind of
kitchen Mónica Patiño, one of the most celebrated chefs in Mexico runs, and
most people would tell you a market kitchen. On a daily basis, Delirio puts out
a great torta sandwich made of European-style charcuterie and Mexican cheeses.
Most everything offered in the restaurant is both Mexican-made and organic.
The biggest surprise?
Instead of my sandwich being heavy like most baguettes, it was really light.
The bread is baked in-house and really makes a difference.
You can find Delirio
at Monterrey 116 on the corner of Alvaro Obregón in Colonia Roma.
I also saw their new
restaurant, Casa Virginia, in the space above Delirio and have it on my list to
try when I come back next year. Its stately elegance reminded me of an old
mansion in the South.
A trendy market at Queretaro
225, I felt like I was back in Chicago at Eataly or in New York at the Chelsea
Market, but on a much smaller scale.
I found it difficult
getting past this stand but eventually went on to taste other good eats including
Cochinita Pibil at Azul Antojo and Chicken Mixotes at Barbacoa Del 23.
This is also a great
place for a drink housing a select wine bar and a German-style beer garden on
the roof.
Mexico City is a
walking city. Most of the time I was on foot.
During my stay,
Insurgentes, Mexico City's longest street running north to south was my main
route for getting around the city. It took me to San Angel, Colonia Roma,
downtown Mexico City and my meetings at the World Trade Center.
Insurgentes is 28.8 km
or 17.9 miles long. Between this and the Paseo de la Reforma, the principal
east-west traffic artery extending for a total distance of 15km or 9.3miles
(and home to my favorite monument, the Angel of Independence), I did the
distance walking well over a marathon while I was here.
I also discovered,
when not on foot, that getting around Mexico City by Metrobus or the Metro are
as easy as navigating your way around Chicago.
People watching? Take
the Metro.
Except for PM travel,
bad weather or a lack of time, taking a taxi is an unnecessary expense. I would
much rather spend my $$$ on food and there is plenty available everywhere,
especially on the streets.
EcoBici, the city's
bike sharing program, with 275 stations around the city, is now available to
tourists.
Best day to take a
ride? Most of Paseo de la Reforma is closed to traffic from 9AM to 2PM on
Sundays. On the last Sunday of the month, try the 30 km. traffic-free route
that takes you around the entire city. Bikes are also allowed in Chapultepec
Park.
Got to love a city who
is working diligently to eliminate your car.
DF Expensive?...
Who said things are
more expensive in Mexico City? A small coffee at the Starbucks on the corner of
Xola and Insurgentes near the World Trade Center, is only 25 pesos where in San
Miguel it is 30...but then you have to add an extra 7 pesos for the half and
half.
Certainly much of the
food is pricier than in other Mexican cities so tap your bank account for
plenty of $$$ before you go.
The Reason I Was Here In The First Place...
Six food trade shows
were going on at the World Trade Center and Cupcakes and Crablegs was invited
to photograph them.
Dedicated to promoting
culture and wine consumption; Participating were wineries, importers and
distributors of wines including Valle de Guadalupe Mexican wines and wines from
South America.
My favorite: Hacienda Wine Cellars.
Dedicated to promoting
all products Agave: Knowing the types of agave, Appellations of Origin, Myths
and Realities, processing, beverages and products made from Agave. Also to
promote the producers of Tequila, Mezcal, Sotol, Bacanora, Raicilla, Pulque and
Agave based products.
My favorite: Mezcal 8ViBoras.
One of the biggest
beer events in Latin America, Cerveza Mexico brought together a variety of over
150 beers, both domestic and international, tastings and competitions to
recognize the craft beer industry.
My favorite: Baja Brewing Company's Baja
Black.
Dedicated to promoting
a culture of Chocolate, identity and market trends.
My favorite:
Everything! Never send a chocoholic to a Chocolate show. I will admit it was
difficult to be objective.
Expo offering Coffee
courses, workshops, conferences and tastings.
Favorite: too many
brands to narrow it down to just one or two.
This was a specialized
exhibition, which promoted good eating in Mexico, bringing together those
involved with food, drinks, accessories and ingredients for gourmet cooking.
My favorite: Enamelware from Malinalco Home.
Since I was one of the few gringos in attendance, using my Spanish was not an option. I ran into very few people who spoke English. Globalization, with it's free trade agreements, has shrunk the business world. I did fine and concluded that I just need to get out of San Miguel more often.
Some of my favorite products at the shows
included:
A beautiful glass
innovation studio in Oaxaca. From the Tequila and Mezcal keepers to shot
glasses, the designs were amazingly unique and exquisite.
Definitely a place
worth checking out when you're in Oaxaca because they also teach classes.
8ViBoras won the
double gold at San Francisco spirits show in 2013 and Gold in 2014 for their
Blanco Joven Espadin Agave Mezcal. They also won 2013's Best Mezcal and Best
Unaged White Spirit.
My new favorite
Mezcal. Unbelievably smooth. And trust me...one small glass will drastically
improve your Spanish.
A young and dynamic
group of French "affineurs de fromage" in Mexico since 2009, they
offered a variety of
gourmet products from imported extra-finos, Ofrecemos Cheese, Wine, Sausage and
Ham.
Their sausage was the
best taste of the show.
Who knew that a coffee
cup could make you smile every morning? Adorable tableware with both
traditional and lucha libre designs.
What's better than the
combination of pineapple ice and chili?
Intensely fiery and
totally refreshing.
What I liked besides
the taste? The label.
Each label is
handwritten with the number that corresponds to the LOA, the production number
and the signature of Don Lorenzo Angeles, a fourth generation
Mezcal-producer.
This would make a
wonderful Mexican gift to take home.
Beautiful white
ceramic tea cup and tortilla warmer.
The tortilla warmer
has won multiple design awards. Think it's time for the tea cup to score one.
Very unique design.
Creative
Textiles...not paper!
Especially loved their
totes.
The main ingredient:
Globefish, which has long been known for its hangover reducing virtues. It
dissolves the alcohol and improves your liver functions...
and everyone needed a
can of this after all of the alcohol tastings this week.
Cerveza Mexico is the
largest beer event in the Latin American with over 150 brewers, importers,
exporters, and supply chain services participating.
Stiff competition was
evident but this year the Baja California brewers swept up many of the medals
in just about every category. No surprise.
Cervecería Wendlandt from Ensenada took home three medals: a gold,
a silver and a bronze.
Lúdica Artesanal won a silver medal with their Aura brand.
You can check Cumpanio Restaurante y Panaderia, Correo 29, here in San Miguel as
they are now serving a variety of craft beers.
It's been in mine
since the first time I came here over 25 years ago.
With it's cobblestone
streets, tree-lined plazas, and beautiful haciendas, it's home to the famous Saturday art
market.
Like me, many people
also come to San Angel to eat. Many of the restaurants are classics.
Eloise...It's All About Service
I made a short stop at
Eloise, Revolución 1527, San Ángel.
This place was highly
recommended for their French food and I'm sure it's great but their
service...or lack of it...was not.
I eat out a lot. In
fact, it's my favorite form of entertainment. I'm a great customer. I'm never
rude nor do I show up 10 minutes before a restaurant is closing expecting to
eat. I'm friendly, respectful, on time, say my please and thank you, rarely
complain, always try to make a reservation and tip very, very well.
Today, I didn't make a
reservation. They had a table; they sat me in the back, in a very dark corner.
It made me wonder if the old saying that solo women get inferior tables was
true. It never happened to me until today.
I was there for 15
minutes, I was the ONLY ONE IN THE RESTAURANT and I was ignored.This really
surprised me as waiters in Mexico have always been both charming and
attentive.
After asking for the
internet password and being told that it was not working, I very politely got
up and left.
There's nothing I love
better than good food but service can make or break your experience. I was just
lucky that I didn't have to spend $$$$ to find that out.
A short trek down the
hill in San Angel, Restaurante El Cardenal (Av. de la Paz Núm.
32, Colonia San Ángel)
was a different story all together. It had also been recommended to me.
I didn't have a
reservation but they welcomed me anyway. When I asked for a table by the
window, they could not get me to that sunny seat fast enough. The place was
full.
From the front of the
house to the wait staff, everyone was very accommodating. In fact, it was some
of the best service I've had in Mexico. The food was equally as good.
I enjoyed the Lamb
Mixiotes $170, Black Beans and the Bolillos are worth a special mention because
they were like none I've eaten before...really crispy, super hot and baked
in-house. Definitely my favorite Bolillo anywhere and that was reason enough
for me to eat four of them!
To my delight, their
mimosa was more champagne than juice ($90) and the $100 peso glass of
Chardonnay was well worth the price... a Casa Madero Chardonnay, from Parras,
Coahuila in Northern Mexico.
Of course I made room
for dessert which was a Tres Leches cake drowned in cajeta. To my surprise, it
was only $45 pesos.
Great food, prices AND
service made for one of the best dining experiences in Mexico City.
The Markets...
The difference between
Central de Abastos/La Nueva Viga wholesale seafood market and Mercado de San
Juan was immense but I enjoyed them both.
Mercado de San Juan is
the destination for Mexico City’s chefs and you'll find plenty of them
wandering this market to find some of the best food items in DF.
A complimentary glass
of wine, the Amigos over-stuffed sandwich with Serrano ham, Salami, Cocido,
Lomo Canadiense, Manchego National, Cabra and Parmesano topped with Salsa Artisanal
Botanera and a free Postre made with Mascarpone, strawberries, honey and
chocolate was just 65 pesos. That's $4.91. When was the last time I had a
fantastic lunch for under $5 USD? It's now on my growing list of cheap eats in
Mexico City.
If I had one place to
go for my last meal, Rosetta would be it.
I had a reservation at 1:30
PM...right when they opened. You actually get the best service when they first
open before the crowds arrive. It's my favorite time to go.
It was Monday. No
one eats out on Monday. I love eating out on Mondays.
Chef Elena Reygadas
was recently named the best female chef in Latin America and she built
Rosetta's reputation on using fresh, seasonal ingredients.
Meals like this are
nothing short of a spiritual experience. You know, the kind that you can still
taste or dream about long after you've eaten them.
With so many
interesting markets and restaurants, I plan to go back to Mexico City early
next year for another round.
Good eats Mexico City?
I'm still savoring the
aftertaste!
Buen Apetito!
Within walking distance of Rosetta at 166
Colima, are:
Contramar, 200 Calle Durango
Their tuna sashimi
tostadas are renowned. They are served on chips smeared with chipotle
mayonnaise and topped with avocado and crispy fried leeks.
La Puerta Abierta, 226
Colima
A sweet patisserie
where the owner, inspired by my favorite NYC baker Jim Lahey, creates the most
fantastic cakes, almond croissants, pastries, and fresh-baked bread.
Sesame,183 Colima
Renowned chef Josefina
Santacruz, after traveling to India, China and Vietnam, found that the best
food was often found on the street or in markets...just like in Mexico.