I've been based in San
Miguel for almost a year now and there have been so many memorable
moments.
I call them
MexicoMoments. You know, the kind that makes you fall in love with Mexico all
over again.
Recapping my year,
here are some thoughts while preparing to leave Mexico's most enchanting city,
San Miguel de Allende.
BBS...
Buen Apetito!
Photography
It's the light here in
SMA that makes taking pictures so spectacular. There’s something almost divine
about it, particularly in the late afternoon.
As a photographer,
light is everything so MexicoMoments happen daily.
Traveling Mexico
From Guanajuato,
Dolores Hidalgo, Queretaro, Morelia, Patzcuaro, Puebla, Guadalajara,Tonola,
Tlaquepaque,Toluca and Mexico DF to the tiny town of Santa Rosa, there have been
so many MexicoMoments I quit counting.
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This year, I came
under the spell of Oaxaca. My sole purpose for going there was to eat. I tried
and loved just about everything.
For years, I've been
told that the food in Oaxaca was the best in Mexico but like every other
foodie, I had to see for myself. It took just one plate of dark, rich, and
wonderfully sweet and spicy mole negro at Catedral Restaurante and Bar in
Oaxaca to convince me.
Oaxaca food is not
immediately obvious, often rich, complex and layered with flavors. From the
market culture to the intriguing taste of the black mole, Oaxaca's culinary
scene is worth exploring over and over again. In fact, we're going back next
year for another look.
Preparing To Travel
Trip Advisor is The
Bible in Mexico but I use many other sources when deciding where to eat.
I ask more than a few
people where I should eat. Not people who have been to the place where I'm
traveling ten years ago but people who have been there in the past year.
I read food blogs
because the information is current and will steer you in the right direction
when it comes to finding great food. If you’re lucky, you’ll find a food
blogger with parallel tastes who covers the city extensively.
I email both chefs and
food bloggers with specific questions. They almost always answer.
When I get to a city,
I follow the crowds, ask a million questions and read local papers and
magazines. I also read between the lines and always consider the source of my
information.
I am one of the first
people to admit that you can never have too much information when it comes to
making food choices.
Lessons...
Mexico Time
Get use to it. Comida
may be at 2 or 3 or maybe even 4 PM. And if you get to a restaurant on
time, you're early.
Acknowledge, Accept,
Adapt and Adjust. It's just the way it is.
What's So Hot About Chili Peppers?
Chili + Chocolate =
Endorphin Rush. A country after my own cravings.
For a girl who could
barely eat Red Hots a year ago, I am now craving habaneros. Yes, everything
tastes better with a chili on it.
Make It From Scratch
A tortilla made with
just-ground corn is a taste revelation. The first time I made one I was blown
away by the flavor.
After years, I am
asking for corn tortillas instead of flour.
Soup
I seem to remember an
old wives tale that it was good to eat cold food when it was cold and hot food
when it is hot.
So goes Mexico eating
Pozole, Menudo, Azteca, and Tortilla when it's 80 degrees outside.
Desserts: Never Count Your Calories
How often do I close
my eyes just to enjoy a MexicoMoment while eating dessert?
From Churros, Flan or
my favorite marshmallow ice cream dish at the Restaurant, Mexican desserts are
too good to be counting calories. Just dig in and walk a few extra miles the
next day.
If it's your birthday,
you're allowed to do doubles.
Your Mexican Kitchen
A cazuela is as
important as a cast-iron pan is to a Southern cook.
These clay pots are
great for cooking soups, beans or stews. It holds a steady heat allowing foods
to cook both slowly and evenly.
It’s no wonder that
Cazuelas are collected by Mexican families and handed down through the
generations.
Some people are so
attached to them they even give them a name. I call mine flaco trusting that
the calories will burn out of whatever it is I'm cooking.
Ethnic Eats
Who would ever think
that some of the best Mexican eggs would be found at Oso Azul, a Scandinavian
restaurant here in SMA?
I also discovered the
best Japanese dish, Okonomiyaki, at a tasting dinner at Casa de Cocinas where
Chef Michael Coon makes MexicoMoments every week.
The Japanese pancake
is made with cabbage and shallots topped with crispy pork belly, bonito flakes,
Japanese mayo, bull dog sauce and toasted nori.
It's my favorite
ethnic dish this year.
Some of the best
ethnic eats are found in places where you least expect them.
Vitamin D
You can get it from
fatty fish, tuna or milk. I get it from the sun.
Goodbye Chicago
winters. That's why I moved here in the first place.
Under 100 Pesos
There are so many
places in San Miguel that will not break the bank when it comes to eating. In
fact, I did a series of three posts back in June on where to eat a meal for
under 100 pesos.
And now, with so many
new restaurants opening up in town, the list continues to grow.
If you think a restaurant is pricy, then why
can I get...?
A beautiful Yogurt,
granola and a fruit plate at Hotel Matilda for 55 pesos
A spicy and strong
Michelada at The Restaurant for 40 pesos
A Croissant and a
Conga at Cumpanio for 64 pesos
Fresh Ceviches at La
Parada for 25-35 pesos
A one-of-a-kind Jicama
taco with shrimp at La Azotea for 45 pesos
Memorable Tapas at
Tapas sma for 30-95 pesos
Do your research
before you decide on a restaurant. Some of them will surprise you.
Real Mexico: Market Food
Some of the great
tastes of Mexico are in the markets...
Like a Guacamaya
sandwich at Hidalgo Market in Guanajunto.
A Deli sandwich at La
Jersey in Mercado San Juan, Mexico City.
Cemitas at Cemitas Las
Polentas in Mercado del Carmen, Puebla.
Grilled meat in
Oaxaca’s 20 de Noviembre market.
It's the first place I
head when I hit a new town. You'll instantly know what the locals are eating.
Toss the Silverware
There's nothing better
than shoveling a plate of brains and eyes down with a corn tortilla. No need
for silverware when you've got a tortilla.
In Mexico you eat with
your hands!
I Use To Be Afraid Of Bugs; Now I Eat Them!
Gusanos (maguey
worms), Jumiles (stink bugs), Chicatanas (giant winged ants), Escamoles (ant
larvae) oftentimes referred to as insect caviar, Ahuatle (water-fly eggs),
Cuchamás (green caterpillars), Chapulines (grasshoppers), Alacránes
(scorpions), Libélulas (dragonflies), and Escarabajos (beetles). I haven't
tried an insect I didn't like.
Now Huitlacoche (corn
fungus) and Nopales (cactus that is stripped of its spikes)...that's another
story.
Food Always Tastes Better With Family
Adopted or otherwise.
Mexican Ingredients
I crave a BLT and have
found that some of the best ingredients are made in Mexico.
First the bread and
nothing better than a crunchy baguette from MiVida.
There is a bacon here
called tocino con grasa. Not sure why it's called that because it has more meat
on it than any American bacon and it's sliced super thin.
A Mexican BLT? Most
people have never heard of it but they are significantly better than the
American version.
What you make will
only be as good as the ingredients you put in it.
Hometown Favorites
I found mine.
This Chicago dog has
great flavor and Chucho has all of those authentic Chicago dog ingredients down
to a science. 35 pesos.
Make It At Home
I've been braver in
the kitchen since I've been here in San Miguel. In fact, if I can't find
something out, I find a good recipe and make it at home.
Isn’t it funny that
you have to go to Mexico to learn how to make good fried chicken? This must be
what 'southern' living is all about.
Culinary Alchemy: The Molcajete
The flavors and
textures you get from grinding things by hand are just better. Case in point:
Guacamole and Salsas.
The best red salsa is
very simple to make…fresh tomatoes, onion, garlic, sea salt, jalapeno and
serrano peppers, a pinch of sugar, easy on the cider vinegar and fresh
cilantro.
Painless Cooking: You
Don't Need 21 Ingredients to Make a Mole
After taking my first
mole lesson with an abuela who can make it with her eyes closed ( I was kidding
but look…she did ) I can honestly say it was time consuming but a lot easier
than I had anticipated.
Lesson One: Be
fearless in the kitchen.
Beautifully complex
with top notes of smoke and undertones of chiles, the depth of flavor had such
an authenticity that even I was amazed at how few ingredients could go into a
mole and still deliver that wonderful, rich taste.
Beyond the BBQ: Outdoor Cooking
In many respects,
Mexico is very similar to Asia. Taco carts like Andy's on Insurgentes and the
one on San Francisco across from Intercam prove that some of the best things to
eat in San Miguel are made on the street and cost less than 10 pesos.
Cooking at home? Here
in SMA, the temperature is so constant that you can use an outdoor kitchen year
round like this one in the home of my cooking teacher.
Nothing ever starts or
ends on time in Mexico and fiestas are no exception.
Of course, celebrating
means street theater, song and dance, church bells, music, parades, bullfights,
fireworks, costumes, cherry bombs and of course food and tequila which is the
staying power of Mexican culture and the focal point of every fiesta.
So what type of food
do you typically find at one of these celebrations? Mole, Barbacoa, Carnitas
and Mixiotes …all of which I eat every week on the street.
From Mexican
Independence Day to Day of the Dead, Mexico’s biggest holiday, fiestas are one
thing that Mexico does exceptionally well. In fact, there are so many of them I
have to dig out my Catholic calendar to figure out which one it is.
Pass the Salt; Lessons On Tequila
What is a biased
opinion? When you know the price of Casa Dragones before you taste it. You
never want to hide Casa Dragones in a mixer but do want to hide it from your
friends. It’s so expensive but so worth it.
And what does the
price of tequila have to do with it anyway?
Some of the best
Margaritas are made with cheap tequila.Take Hotel Sautto, where they use some
of the least expensive and oldest (1879) made tequila in Mexico - Orendain
Tequila Blanco.
There are so many
great Margaritas here...traditional, pineapple, tamarind.
I've tried them all
but I still like a traditional on the rocks with salt. The pineapple Margarita
at the Restaurant is a close second.
I've tried to survive
the 2X1 Margaritas at Hansen's but at 6800 Feet Above Sea Level, two Margaritas
= one Margarita too many!
And Mezcal…
This may require me to
give up my long-time nickname "The Tequila Queen" and officially
declare that I am having a love affair with Mezcal.
In Mexico, they have
an expression that mezcal is meant to be kissed. In other words sip it slowly
to allow a deep connection and if you don't get the instant connection, try it
again.
This just might go on
all night. Disappointed?
8ViBoras won the
double gold at San Francisco spirits show in 2013 and Gold in 2014 for their
Blanco Joven Espadin Agave Mezcal. They also won 2013's Best Mezcal and Best
Unaged White Spirit. It is so smooth and trust me...one small glass will
drastically improve your Spanish.
Valle de Guadalupe Wines
Call it "the
other Mexico", you'll go back in time because Valle de Guadalupe is what
Sonoma and Napa Valleys were like 50 years ago.
I heard recently that
the area is still going through a lot of growing pains.
Always the most
interesting time to take a solo visit don't you think?
Some of the Best Wines in Mexico Are The Least
Expensive
Antares Chardonnay $58
pesos
XA Vinos DOMECQ Blanc
de Blancs $89 pesos
L.A Cetto Petit Shiraz
$98 pesos
Santa Digna Chardonnay
$128 pesos
Beer 301
Lesson One: Mexican
beer needs to be served ice cold and never - ever - ever - in a glass.
My interest in beer
has peaked since I came to San Miguel not only because Mexico has always
produced quality beers (even the average brews in Mexico are better than what
you get in the states) but hiking the hills here can really make you
thirsty.
Hardly a go-to for
beer snobs, Corona may be a best seller but it's not considered one of the best
beers in Mexico. What is? Bohemia Obscura, Negra Modelo, Dos XX Ambar, Minerva
and a whole slew of other craft beers coming on the scene like Dos Aves, a fantastic
craft beer brewed in San Miguel.
Let's hope brewmaster
Mark Taylor will make our MexicoMoment this Christmas and dreams up another
holiday brew.
Champagne Like Tequila: A Denomination of
Origin
Champagne is a drink
of jubilation for which MexicoMoment memories are made.
When you hear the cork
pop it signals that a party is about to go down. I love parties.
And if you're looking
for a great glass of champagne, like I always am, La Cava is the ticket.
I discovered this
Spanish bubbly earlier this year at the Cava Sautto Wine Fest back in February.
The Morning After
I swear Mexico has
more hangover cures than any other country in the world.
Try Chilaquiles,
Menudo or a Micheladas just for starters.
High Altitude Baking
Even with a high
altitude baking class with Susan Purdy, author of the award winning cookbook
'Pie In The Sky', I still can't make popovers.
I'm betting that
Claudia will take on the challenge when I return. We have a date.
Claudia started making
her pies when she was 9 years old with her German grandfather.
I was never a fan of
Lemon Meringue until I tasted hers.
The
Mexican Thing To Do...
Paint It Rosa
Rosa Mexicano. Hex:
#E4007C and RGB: 228,0,124. It's the color of Mexico.
My fascination with
the color Rosa began when I first came to Mexico years ago. My obsession
started when I saw Vanessa's Rosa tortillas.
Rosa is considered a
symbol of national identity in Mexico. It also represents Mexican charisma.
Rosa is the one color
that represents the Mexican color palette. I see Rosa and it instantly makes me
want to break out in song and start dancing. Rosa makes me happy.
Seeing the world
through Rosa-colored glasses these days? Blame it on San Miguel. It has that
magic.
Build An Altar
Dia de Los Muertos is
Mexico’s most important holiday. It will be here next week and I'll be
gone.
I’ve loved this
holiday ever since I lived in Mexico in the late 60’s and saw the celebrations
first hand. The cemeteries are full of all-night gatherings and one tribute is
as amazing as the next.
The holiday is
observed November 1st and 2nd – All Saints Day and All Souls Day -
and centers on gathering friends and family to pray for, remember and celebrate
friends and family members who have died.
People build altars at
home to honor the deceased using sugar skulls, marigolds and the favorite foods
and beverages of the departed.
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They also go to the
cemetery and decorate graves, building altars there as well and staying up all
night on November 1st to commemorate.
I started building my
altar years ago. I leave it up during the holidays and it is a daily reminder
of the magnificent things that people who have passed brought to my life while
they were here.
Isn’t it amazing how
your culinary style is defined by the great chefs of your past? Celebrate by
creating the dishes they taught you to cook. My mom loved Chinese food so I often
cook Chinese during this time.
I also put up a photo
of my old boyfriend who is not dead. It's a time of renewal. With this holiday,
I bury the past and move on with the new. Honestly, it feels tremendous to get
rid of the baggage.
So where will you put
your altar? Mine is in my kitchen because nearly all of the people I love who
have died were crazy about both cooking and eating.
I’m hoping that my
family will celebrate me on Day of the Dead long after I am gone. I know they
wouldn't forget to bring the tequila.
It's a festive and
joyous time of celebration and on November 1st this year, I will be
in Tulsa celebrating my son's wedding.
La PurÃsima is a
celebration to the purest conception of the Virgin Mary, taking place on December
8th. The celebration itself grew into a national festival where cities and
towns now complete to create the biggest and best altars.
‘PurÃsimas’ themselves
are made for gratitude for miracles and usually last nine days.
She is the icon I have
chosen to watch over my kitchen in San Miguel.
Why? I need some
kitchen miracles of my own.
Living The Good Life
Expect The Unexpected.
That's what I love most about San Miguel. I can turn a corner or go down a
street and I never know what I’m going to find.
And just when you
think that you’ve seen it all, something new appears for yet another
MexicoMoment.