Concerned about what you
eat? How about what your food eats?
I’m going back to Mexico soon. I buy pork
to make carnitas but where does it come from and what do the pigs really eat? I
would like to know. It would be great to get out and shake
the hands and talk to the person who raised the pork I am cooking tonight.
Remember eating locally helps the local economy.
Last May, I left the
Wise Acre Eatery’s 100 acre farm in Plato, MN knowing a lot more about the
saying “You are what you eat.” In particular, I was fascinated with their
Scottish Highland Cattle, Berkshire and large Black hogs and free range
chickens. You’ll want to get on the top of their
food chain because their animals are fed only top-quality fare and there is a
fundamental link between the diet and how they taste.
For instance, Berkshire pork happens to
be one of my favorite meats. It has tremendous marbling and a sizeable layer of
back fat. Once you've tasted Berkshire, there's no going back to eating plain pork.
It’s more expensive but totally worth the price. Why? Berkshire pigs are
pampered …as they should be.
My last supper in Chicago tonight? What
else but a beautiful Berkshire pork chop.
Wine? Pork needs a spicy red with acidity
and low tannins, like a medium-bodied Zinfandel.
I love Ravenswood Old Vine.
Speaking of Pork…
A few years back, I was introduced to
Lee Ann Whippen at her restaurant Chicago Q. Her Eggs Benedict recipe is a delicious
cornbread base covered with smoked chicken and smothered in Hollandaise Sauce. Lee
Ann is the Queen of Q and the winner of Food Network’s Bobby Flay Throwdown for
best BBQ.
After meeting Lee Ann, I decided to hop
on the bandwagon and go down to the Memphis in May World Championship BBQ competition. I wanted to be a better BBQ chef
which I think is a very difficult art.
Being at the
grand daddy of all BBQ cook-offs doesn’t come without a price. Entrants pay around
$25,000 for equipment and $15,000 just to be there to win bragging rights.
The
ribs alone prompted me to return to my new smoker for another round of lessons. By the way, I like the sides too.
One hard and fast rule I realized early
on: Always keep an eye on what you’re grilling. I can’t tell you
how many things I ruined on the BBQ because I didn’t watch them.
So this got me thinking today. How great it would be to roast
a whole pig for Christmas just like in Memphis?
If you’re lucky enough to live in a warm climate, I
would bet that roasting a whole pig would be a lot more fun than throwing a ham
in the oven. But, if you reside where the ground is rock-solid right now, save
this recipe for the first sign of spring. I’ll be the first to show up for
dinner.
Me? Writing this has made me so hungry, I’m going back
to Chicago Qs’ for dinner.
Bon Appetit!
Whole Roasted Pig
Serves 20
Source: Wall Street Journal
Basics:
30-pound pig
Spit
At least 60 pounds of lump
charcoal
Meat thermometer
Generous lengths of
stainless steel wire
For
the Brine:
4
1/3 cups salt
2½ cups sugar
5 tablespoons coriander seeds
5 tablespoons black peppercorns
1 teaspoon allspice berries
1½ teaspoons juniper berries
20 bay leaves
20 sprigs fresh thyme
20 garlic cloves, crushed
2½ cups sugar
5 tablespoons coriander seeds
5 tablespoons black peppercorns
1 teaspoon allspice berries
1½ teaspoons juniper berries
20 bay leaves
20 sprigs fresh thyme
20 garlic cloves, crushed
For
the pig:
¼
cup kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
10 cloves crushed garlic
Thyme, rosemary, tarragon
Olive oil for basting
Freshly ground black pepper
10 cloves crushed garlic
Thyme, rosemary, tarragon
Olive oil for basting
To make brine, combine salt, sugar
and 1 gallon of water in a large pot and bring to a boil. Stir until salt and
sugar have dissolved. Let cool.
Place coriander, peppercorns,
allspice, juniper and bay leaves in a zip-top plastic bag and smash them with a
heavy object. Combine all brine ingredients, plus another 4¼ gallons of cold
water, in a big pot.
Remove any stray hairs (a disposable razor works well); wash
the pig and contort it into a clean camping cooler or other clean, large
container (you'll probably have to bend the hind legs). Pour enough cold brine
over pig to cover. Leave for 24 to 48 hours, adding ice to keep cold.
The
day of your roast, remove pig from brine 90 minutes before you plan to start
cooking.
Dry
the pig inside and out with clean paper towels.
Season
pig cavity aggressively with salt and pepper, rubbing in as you go. Add a few
good handfuls of herbs and the garlic to the cavity.
Thread the spit through the pig's
mouth and out the other end, and fasten securely per manufacturer's
instructions. Close the belly cavity using wooden skewers that have been soaked
in water.
Using
pliers and stainless steel wire, tie the rear legs snugly under the body, and
then secure the forelegs forward, near the snout. Pull wire as tight as
possible.
Prepare your fire. You should have at
least 60 pounds of lump charcoal or a stack of hardwood on hand, adding slowly
as you go. You should be able to hold your hand at spit level for ten
seconds—any hotter and the skin will char before the meat is cooked.
Poke
the pig all over, just deep enough to penetrate the skin, using a sharp paring
knife. Season aggressively with salt and pepper.
Place
spit over the fire. If you've got a motorized spit, all you need to do is baste
the pig every 30 minutes or so with olive oil and manage the coals. If it's a
manual spit, turn pig every three to five minutes to cook evenly.
Remove
the foil after a couple hours. Your pig should
take between four and eight hours, depending on heat of your coals and wind. Test for doneness by sticking an instant read
thermometer into the thickest part of a rear haunch.
140
degrees is ideal if you like your pork medium-well and juicy.
Snip
away steel wire, pull out spit and rest the pig in a warm place for 30 minutes
if you can stand it.
Tip:
Keep the coals low and slow, basting every 30
minutes, making sure the skin doesn't cook before the meat. The slower you cook
it, the better the meal.